Speakers everywhere! Has anyone installed a legitimate aftermarket system at this point? If so, are there any learning curves or gotchas vs. ICE cars? Is it even possible to find good speakers to replace every single type in the model 3?
aftermarket sound system info thread
How-To
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I would gather that it would be very VERY annoying to mess with/install an aftermarket system on a Model 3 (if possible at all without throwing codes everywhere).....just one question though....do you have the premium audio....because if you do....I was wondering why you would even want to change it.....hands down one of the best (if not the best) audio system I have heard in a car to date (and I have heard some nice aftermarket audio systems too).......
I do have the premium audio. Both ends of the frequency range are pretty bad imo though. Bass in the door is muddy and the subwoofer doesn't reach below 40hz when you can hear it. On the opposite end I had to turn the treble almost all of the way down to get rid of the hissing "S" snake sound that was piercing/fatiguing my ears. To be fair, this kind of tinny treble seems to be a trend in cars and cheap headphones these days.
Apart from that I have had pretty good systems before and own reference level headphones. The system is good, but there is obviously some tradeoffs or weird stuff going on in it. Even a 13 band EQ would be a nice addition so I can tune it correctly without compromising vocals over guitar, etc.
As for pros, the amount of speakers and their positioning do make for an enveloping sound stage once you set the balance towards the back seats a little bit. Although even then, it seems a bit ghostly and faded in some of the music I like to listen to (metal).
Apart from that I have had pretty good systems before and own reference level headphones. The system is good, but there is obviously some tradeoffs or weird stuff going on in it. Even a 13 band EQ would be a nice addition so I can tune it correctly without compromising vocals over guitar, etc.
As for pros, the amount of speakers and their positioning do make for an enveloping sound stage once you set the balance towards the back seats a little bit. Although even then, it seems a bit ghostly and faded in some of the music I like to listen to (metal).
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I suggest you do two things first, in this order:
1. Connect a "lossless" compression playback device to one of the front USB ports, and try to play back audio through there (I don't know for certain that will work, but it might). See if it sounds much better. If it does, replacing the speakers and amp are a waste of time and money, because it's the digital source that's the problem. It might be this solves the problem entirely for you. The built-in system uses all compressed audio.
2. I that's not much better, try the same device again, except this time find the amplifier, and plug the audio into a trusted set of your own speakers (they can be home audio, they don't have to be 12v automotive speakers) to see if the sound is better. If it's not, then things get much more expensive from there - because it's the MCU audio or software decoding that's the problem. You would have to get your own audio playback device and connect it to your own amp and speakers, bypassing the Tesla system entirely.
1. Connect a "lossless" compression playback device to one of the front USB ports, and try to play back audio through there (I don't know for certain that will work, but it might). See if it sounds much better. If it does, replacing the speakers and amp are a waste of time and money, because it's the digital source that's the problem. It might be this solves the problem entirely for you. The built-in system uses all compressed audio.
2. I that's not much better, try the same device again, except this time find the amplifier, and plug the audio into a trusted set of your own speakers (they can be home audio, they don't have to be 12v automotive speakers) to see if the sound is better. If it's not, then things get much more expensive from there - because it's the MCU audio or software decoding that's the problem. You would have to get your own audio playback device and connect it to your own amp and speakers, bypassing the Tesla system entirely.
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I am in the process of tackling this, myself. Here's some info I've been able to gather about the audio system in Model 3:
Model 3 PUP audio system
Speakers
# speakers: 15
(1x) 8" subwoofer in passenger trunk well - dual voice coil @ 2x4Ohm, 2x80W (equivalent to a minimum of 160W @ 2 Ohm, see below)
(3x) 4" midrange speakers in dash - 3 Ohm, 33W each
(1x) 1" tweeter in dash - 4 Ohm, 25W (note that this tweeter is passive, meaning it has an inline crossover)
(2x) 1" tweeters at side mirrors - 4 Ohm, 25W each (note that these tweeters are active, meaning they're only sent high frequencies)
(2x) 2.5" midrange speakers in A-pillars - 4 Ohm, 2W (!!)
(2x) 8" woofers in front doors - 4 Ohm, 80W each
(2x) 4" midrange speakers in rear doors - 3 Ohm, 33W each
(2x) 4" midrange speakers in trunk lid - 3 Ohm, 33W each
A few observations:
-The speakers located in the upper A pillars (these are the ones that turn on/off with the "Immersive sound" option) are extremely wimpy... They are rated at 2W!! I don't think I'll even bother replacing them since they're not doing much of anything.
-There are 4 wires (2 channels) going from the rear amp to the subwoofer. This leads me to believe that those 2 channels are bridged internally in the amp, and the sub's voice coils are therefore wired in parallel... for a minimum of 160W @ 2ohm. I say minimum because the subwoofer is marked as 80W x 2 and 4Ohm x 2, and typically wiring up a 2Ohm load gives you a little more power than the sum of the 4-ohm loads.
-I'm a little surprised that the speakers are mostly 3/4 Ohm. Based on Model S and X, I was expecting most of these to be 1/2 Ohm. Makes aftermarket replacement much easier, especially if looking to do it without replacing factory amps.
I'm going to disagree with the other posters in this thread and (optimistically) say that replacing speakers, and adding an aftermarket amp & sub should be relatively painless.
I've already ordered a Focal ISU 200 kit comprised of 8" woofers and tweeters. I figure the stock amp @ 80W / 25W per channel should be enough to drive these adequately.
I've also ordered a mono 300W amp and 10" subwoofer. A 12x12x12 sealed enclosure fits perfectly in the sub-trunk, with room on either side for chargers and tire kits, and even allows you to put the cover back on (though I will most likely create a custom cover with speaker mesh).
I've located an adequate 12V power source under the passenger-side rear seat (directly off DC-DC converter) -> very short run to trunk
Switched 12V for remote lead can be tapped in driver's footwell (as shown in Ingeneerix' video)
The only thing I have not cracked yet is whether there is a line-in type of signal coming into the stock amp. Need to dig into this a little more, but worst case I'll just tap into the wires going to the stock sub and use a line out converter. In either case, short run from the rear amp to my aftermarket amp.
I also plan to replace all 3 4" speakers in the dash with Infinity Reference speakers, and will likely also replace the lone passive tweeter (haven't decided where I'm going to find a single tweeter :-/ )
Not planning to mess with the top A-pillar speakers, or the rear door / trunk shelf speakers yet, and probably won't unless it really somehow throws off the balance.
Model 3 PUP audio system
Speakers
# speakers: 15
(1x) 8" subwoofer in passenger trunk well - dual voice coil @ 2x4Ohm, 2x80W (equivalent to a minimum of 160W @ 2 Ohm, see below)
(3x) 4" midrange speakers in dash - 3 Ohm, 33W each
(1x) 1" tweeter in dash - 4 Ohm, 25W (note that this tweeter is passive, meaning it has an inline crossover)
(2x) 1" tweeters at side mirrors - 4 Ohm, 25W each (note that these tweeters are active, meaning they're only sent high frequencies)
(2x) 2.5" midrange speakers in A-pillars - 4 Ohm, 2W (!!)
(2x) 8" woofers in front doors - 4 Ohm, 80W each
(2x) 4" midrange speakers in rear doors - 3 Ohm, 33W each
(2x) 4" midrange speakers in trunk lid - 3 Ohm, 33W each
A few observations:
-The speakers located in the upper A pillars (these are the ones that turn on/off with the "Immersive sound" option) are extremely wimpy... They are rated at 2W!! I don't think I'll even bother replacing them since they're not doing much of anything.
-There are 4 wires (2 channels) going from the rear amp to the subwoofer. This leads me to believe that those 2 channels are bridged internally in the amp, and the sub's voice coils are therefore wired in parallel... for a minimum of 160W @ 2ohm. I say minimum because the subwoofer is marked as 80W x 2 and 4Ohm x 2, and typically wiring up a 2Ohm load gives you a little more power than the sum of the 4-ohm loads.
-I'm a little surprised that the speakers are mostly 3/4 Ohm. Based on Model S and X, I was expecting most of these to be 1/2 Ohm. Makes aftermarket replacement much easier, especially if looking to do it without replacing factory amps.
I'm going to disagree with the other posters in this thread and (optimistically) say that replacing speakers, and adding an aftermarket amp & sub should be relatively painless.
I've already ordered a Focal ISU 200 kit comprised of 8" woofers and tweeters. I figure the stock amp @ 80W / 25W per channel should be enough to drive these adequately.
I've also ordered a mono 300W amp and 10" subwoofer. A 12x12x12 sealed enclosure fits perfectly in the sub-trunk, with room on either side for chargers and tire kits, and even allows you to put the cover back on (though I will most likely create a custom cover with speaker mesh).
I've located an adequate 12V power source under the passenger-side rear seat (directly off DC-DC converter) -> very short run to trunk
Switched 12V for remote lead can be tapped in driver's footwell (as shown in Ingeneerix' video)
The only thing I have not cracked yet is whether there is a line-in type of signal coming into the stock amp. Need to dig into this a little more, but worst case I'll just tap into the wires going to the stock sub and use a line out converter. In either case, short run from the rear amp to my aftermarket amp.
I also plan to replace all 3 4" speakers in the dash with Infinity Reference speakers, and will likely also replace the lone passive tweeter (haven't decided where I'm going to find a single tweeter :-/ )
Not planning to mess with the top A-pillar speakers, or the rear door / trunk shelf speakers yet, and probably won't unless it really somehow throws off the balance.
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I've read about your plan for aftermarket system some time ago, how is the progress so far? Also wondering where you plan on putting the aftermarket 300W amp. I'm curious as to what effects the extra weight and wattage will do to the range. Do you also plan on putting sound deadening material in the doors and trunk?
I've had aftermarket systems in previous cars, and they do easily outperform what the Model 3 comes with, but I'm finding the Model 3's system to be good enough to not spend the extra money.
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I have to admit, I was kind of waiting for someone else to figure all this out before I dove in... but I've been waiting a while and I'm not a particularly patient person. So, I'm going in.
I have the Focal ISU 200 and the subwoofer/amp on the way, so I'll update as I install them (should be this week or next).
Extra weight is going to be negligible, the sub/amp/box all-in probably only weight about 20 lbs max. My plan is to just mount the amp to the box, which will reside in the sub-trunk. Not ideal, but beats having to fabricate some other way to mount it in the trunk. The amp I bought is only 6" x 8", so very compact. I've heard from others who have installed much beefier systems in the model S & X, that the effect on range is not even really noticeable. We'll see.
I might put some minor sound deadening around the door speakers, but I'm not looking to add a bunch of needless weight. This car is the most solidly put together car I've ever owned... I don't have a single squeak or rattle, so I don't see the need for deadening.
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Use Reus Audio in Orange County California. They specialize in upgrading the OEM system in Model 3. Very happy with my system.
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Man, better knock on wood there, use the dash trim perhaps. Funny thing is, the first thing I thought about when I opened the cover to the sub-trunk was, "This would be a perfect place to house a sub." I'm kinda hoping car audio manufacturers (Focal, JL, RF...) will start making custom pieces and possibly direct replacements subs as well that could use the current housing with a bigger magnet and non-paper cones.
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You need to compare the OEM system to a true audiophile system. No comparison.I would imagine given the integration of the Model 3 system's that it would be very difficult to replace amplifiers. Speakers are relatively easy but the audio system in the car is so damn good I can't think of anyone really wanting to mess with it
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May I ask what all they did? They added a subwoofer and tweeter in another customer's post I saw... Did they add an aftermarket amp (assuming they did)? If so, is there ANY way you could give me some hints (pics?) as to how they went about getting the line inputs (rca inputs going into aftermarket amp)? I'm assuming they're tapping into some wires at the rear OEM amp (behind the trunk liner on the passenger side).
Would be incredibly helpful to me.
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Sounds like an interesting project! Please document it here with pictures so that everyone can see what's involved in a new thread and I'll promote it to an article so it appears more like a blog post.
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Did not watch the install, but do know they added new tweeters in the doors, a speaker on the backside of the rear view mirror, new crossovers, amps, subwoofer and enclosure. Still allows me to use Tesla OEM controls and inputs. No viable changes to car. They did not change out the main door speakers, which I plan to look into doing. Can't help you with the wiring questions.
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You may want to watch the YouTube video that Elie at T-Sportline did on their aftermarket Model 3 sound system.
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I did, it's a little light on details. The only aspect of this install that I haven't figured out yet is how to get the audio signal. I'm sure if I spend some time with the stock amp, I can figure out a solution... was just hoping you could offer me a shortcut.
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Great project. I wish you the best of luck and look forward (hopefully) to hearing about your progress.
Model S Plaid, Model X Plaid, Model Y Performance, Model 3 Performance
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Here is our approach for an audio upgrade:
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Can you give some more details on the amp installation? Whether you're using low or high level line-outs, and if the former where you tapped into?
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