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Just remember that it is usually cheaper to do everything the way you want it the first time, than to have to re-do it.
 

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I put in one Focal ISU 200 woofer today and I'm already amazed at the difference. These things are deep enough for my taste and don't see why I'd want a sub. In home audio circles subs are only used when you can't put big enough speakers in to begin with, and are still considered a kluge. They are difficult to integrate for real music. In home theater they are OK I guess.

But back to the car, I'll be doing the other side tomorrow. I took my time doing it today and had to remove the door panel twice after I put it back the first time and it didn't quite snap in, then I couldn't get one screw back in as the holes didn't align. I tried one last time and couldn't do it and broke a clip in the process. I'll try tomorrow on the other side and then assess if it is worth replacing the broken clip or just leave it. There are 2 pairs of clips on that side so it still looks solid where the panel is.

I tried a little jazz, opera (Tristan und Isolde), classic rock (Queen, Pink Floyd, Stones) and Dua Lipa, all on Tidal Hifi. Guess which had the most bass?
 

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I put in one Focal ISU 200 woofer today and I'm already amazed at the difference. These things are deep enough for my taste and don't see why I'd want a sub. In home audio circles subs are only used when you can't put big enough speakers in to begin with, and are still considered a kluge. They are difficult to integrate for real music. In home theater they are OK I guess.

But back to the car, I'll be doing the other side tomorrow. I took my time doing it today and had to remove the door panel twice after I put it back the first time and it didn't quite snap in, then I couldn't get one screw back in as the holes didn't align. I tried one last time and couldn't do it and broke a clip in the process. I'll try tomorrow on the other side and then assess if it is worth replacing the broken clip or just leave it. There are 2 pairs of clips on that side so it still looks solid where the panel is.

I tried a little jazz, opera (Tristan und Isolde), classic rock (Queen, Pink Floyd, Stones) and Dua Lipa, all on Tidal Hifi. Guess which had the most bass?
what version model 3 do you have?
 

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My Tesla has a JL Audio HD900/5 that is 100 watts RMS x 4 plus 500 watts RMS for my single 12" Focal sub and this single amplifier plays cleanly and loud enough to damage my hearing. FWIW, my home audio system has these Magnepan's that are 71" tall and 24" wide and they sound a hell of a lot better than the $6k Focal speaker/JL amp set up in my Tesla. Car systems can never compete with a home system except on bass output is easier and cheaper to get in a car. ;)

The pic is from the Magnepan website.
I got a jl 500w subwoofer amp and 250w JL sub. and have an LC2i drawing signal from driver side speaker. The LC2i worked as a trigger with the blue wire. It worked perfectly for about 4 days and would kick in and off when sound was played from speakers in car. On the 5th day I woke up and it had a lot of codes on the screen of the car about battery not holding charge, and unable to use certain accessories. So I disconnected the amp and rebooted the 12v power by disconnecting grey plug near penthouse posts and also the terminals on battery in frunk. This took away the codes. But I still wanted to use the sub so I got a relay and a switch. This did nothing the codes still kick on. Does anyone know how to install a subwoofer amp without codes?
 

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I got a jl 500w subwoofer amp and 250w JL sub. and have an LC2i drawing signal from driver side speaker. The LC2i worked as a trigger with the blue wire. It worked perfectly for about 4 days and would kick in and off when sound was played from speakers in car. On the 5th day I woke up and it had a lot of codes on the screen of the car about battery not holding charge, and unable to use certain accessories. So I disconnected the amp and rebooted the 12v power by disconnecting grey plug near penthouse posts and also the terminals on battery in frunk. This took away the codes. But I still wanted to use the sub so I got a relay and a switch. This did nothing the codes still kick on. Does anyone know how to install a subwoofer amp without codes?
How old is your 12v battery? The first time you got the errors, were you playing music at that time? After you reset and rebooted, how did the errors come back? Did you just get back in the car and the errors popped up or were you listening to music for a period of time?
 

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How old is your 12v battery? The first time you got the errors, were you playing music at that time? After you reset and rebooted, how did the errors come back? Did you just get back in the car and the errors popped up or were you listening to music for a period of time?
Not sure that those questions are terribly relevant. He needs to isolate the power amp. Google any number of threads on this and the other forum about preventing error codes with aftermarket amps.
 

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Not sure that those questions are terribly relevant. He needs to isolate the power amp. Google any number of threads on this and the other forum about preventing error codes with aftermarket amps.
Can you provide a link to any particular posts?
I would expect some posts within this thread to discuss a solution, but it can be difficult to figure out which posts have correct and incorrect solutions.

Also, this thread might have solutions:
 

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Not sure that those questions are terribly relevant. He needs to isolate the power amp. Google any number of threads on this and the other forum about preventing error codes with aftermarket amps.
The reason is asked those questions is because I recently had my audio upgraded. I'm running an Audison AP f.8.9 for the cabin speakers (860 RMS) 3 way front stage and a JL Audio powered sub (400 RMS). All running off the 12v battery. I did have an issue with a 12v battery error but I was testing the system and listening to music at high volume for almost an hour. I disconnected the HV battery and 12v and reset the car. Since then I have not had any issues.
 

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The reason is asked those questions is because I recently had my audio upgraded. I'm running an Audison AP f.8.9 for the cabin speakers (860 RMS) 3 way front stage and a JL Audio powered sub (400 RMS). All running off the 12v battery. I did have an issue with a 12v battery error but I was testing the system and listening to music at high volume for almost an hour. I disconnected the HV battery and 12v and reset the car. Since then I have not had any issues.
The reset will always clear those codes the problem is that they tend to come back unless the amp is effectively isolated via relay from the 12 volt system. In other words the system can't really tell whether or not it's your AC unit or your souped up amplifier that's draining the 12v battery while the car is operating and it doesn't see that as an error condition, it just supplies extra power from the high voltage pack, but it most certainly can tell on Startup or at other times perhaps particularly when the capacitors are charging up. I suspect but I'm not sure that it actually reads the voltage drop off the 12-volt system on Startup as a sign that there's something wrong
 

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I just got done installing my sub and amp in my 22 MYP and the only way I was able to get around the code issue was installing a second battery. It wasn't that hard but the first time I installed my system my car had to be towed to Tesla and my Li Ion 12v battery had to be replaced.
 

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The reason is asked those questions is because I recently had my audio upgraded. I'm running an Audison AP f.8.9 for the cabin speakers (860 RMS) 3 way front stage and a JL Audio powered sub (400 RMS). All running off the 12v battery. I did have an issue with a 12v battery error but I was testing the system and listening to music at high volume for almost an hour. I disconnected the HV battery and 12v and reset the car. Since then I have not had any issues.
I suspect I have the same JL Audio sub in the trunk that you do (ACS112LG-TW1, 400 W rms?).
I tapped the penthouse 12V supply (just a fuse, no relay, no cap, no second battery), get turn on signal from the speaker output, and it's been working great for about 3 years in my 3LR, no issues.
 

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I just got done installing my sub and amp in my 22 MYP and the only way I was able to get around the code issue was installing a second battery. It wasn't that hard but the first time I installed my system my car had to be towed to Tesla and my Li Ion 12v battery had to be replaced.
Did you use a relay, or just amp and sub?
 

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No relay. I just ran my power from the battery jump post in the front. I routed my power wire down the passenger side. Connected my second battery and installed my amp to the second battery. I have a new model y with the AMD chip so the battery is too small to support any real power without the car throwing itself into protect. Ill post some pictures in a few min.
 

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MY main amp( JL HD 750/1) is being repaired so when I get it back I'll clean up and finish the install but I'm using this kicker amp in the meanwhile. But it works great so far. I am using the audio output of the sub as the trigger. Not DC offset.
 

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MY main amp( JL HD 750/1) is being repaired so when I get it back I'll clean up and finish the install but I'm using this kicker amp in the meanwhile. But it works great so far. I am using the audio output of the sub as the trigger. Not DC offset.
Interesting. Appreciate the alternative route.
 

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I suspect I have the same JL Audio sub in the trunk that you do (ACS112LG-TW1, 400 W rms?).
I tapped the penthouse 12V supply (just a fuse, no relay, no cap, no second battery), get turn on signal from the speaker output, and it's been working great for about 3 years in my 3LR, no issues.
Yes, I have the same JL sub. Glad to report that I have not had any more issues with both the Audison and JL sub running off of the 12V frunk battery. Let's hope it stays that way.
 
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