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Fixing the front end squeak without grease injection

503 Views 8 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  bwilson4web
Over time, gravity settles the grease below the control arm, ball joint leading to a metal-on-metal squeak. I just fixed my front end, ball joint squeak without injecting grease or replacing the control arm.

Jack up the car; remove the tire, and; remove the clamp bolt. Then use something like vice grips to grab the ball joint shaft and squeeze the boot to get grease in contact. Move it back and forth to coat the ball and the resistance and squeak goes away. The only problem was the clamp bolt threads were wiped out getting the bolt out:
Light Automotive tire Tread Gas Coil spring


So I walked over to Mike's Merchandise, a neighborhood surplus parts store, and bought a substitute bolt, two washers, and locking nut, $0.28:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

Those are WD-40 spray stains on the wheel well. I also squirted down the control arm bolts.

Bob Wilson

ps. I was inspired by a UK YouTube that correctly pointed out the grease didn't 'leak out'. Remember, gravity wins.
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ps. I was inspired by a UK YouTube that correctly pointed out the grease didn't 'leak out'. Remember, gravity wins.
Can you share a link to the video?
You might want to check the SAE rating on that bolt since it is part of the suspension. What Are The Different Grades Of Bolts?
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I don’t get how those threads got so stripped, normally that does not happen..any idea?
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I don’t get how those threads got so stripped, normally that does not happen..any idea?
Nothing wrong with those threads - thar is a mechanical interefeence locking thread design and built that way. Note the base diameter gets LARGER with more nut engangement - thread wear would make it smaller.

NOTE: It is CRITICAL to use only a free-spinning threaded nut and NOT a mechanical locking nut on that type of stud. If you use a locking thread (mechanical deformation of the nut) stud with a locking nut, as they will never come apart.
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This looks like something that might be worthwhile to add to the regular maintenance schedule like checking the brake fluid.
Nothing wrong with those threads - thar is a mechanical interefeence locking thread design and built that way. Note the base diameter gets LARGER with more nut engangement - thread wear would make it smaller.

NOTE: It is CRITICAL to use only a free-spinning threaded nut and NOT a mechanical locking nut on that type of stud. If you use a locking thread (mechanical deformation of the nut) stud with a locking nut, as they will never come apart.
I've opened those bolts several times with no damage to the threads.
I installed grease zerks on top of the ball joint some years ago on my OEM FUCAs but it became tedious to have to remove the frunk tub in order to get to them with the grease gun. Therefore in the last year I have just injected grease with a needle into the rubber boots, knowing that I was going to replace them with the Meyle HD FUCAs as soon as they were available. I got them installed this weekend and you can read about my experience and see pictures in this thread Replace Front Upper Control Arm (FUCA) with Meyle HD
A cheap workaround, I was not happy with just manipulation of the ball joint to take the squeak out (i.e., FAST and CHEAP GOOD.) Turns out this is a latent design defect so I've ordered performance replacement parts:
A solid aluminum part with larger area ball, the casting covers the ball joint with a water shield and weights less.

I ordered from EVANNEX because they have free shipping until June 9. Upon registration, I also signed up for the $20 discount only to learn it has a 7 day window. I also noticed shipping is deferred until July. Regardless, I bought the right and left kit and will replace both control arms when the new parts arrive, $341.27.

Anyone know the Tesla part cost? Has Tesla redesigned theirs to solve the drain water, contamination problem?

Bob Wilson
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