You and me both, while I'm not a big fan of dodging the front upper knuckle with spacers (hate them, plus that would probably cause rubbing against wheel well) nor by narrow tire (on slick dry roads car already lacks grip with stock 235 tires in my experience). If you figure out anyway to get i1's model Y's setup on your Model 3... please do share! I'd love to be able to go on trails similar to the one shown in that video but with our ground clearance its not really feasibleI'm playing with the idea of doing something similar to the Model 3. Would like to get @MountainPass lift kit and would like to use an A/T tire (26" A/T tires are hard to come by probably for good reason).
Anyone successfully attempt this? @Mad Hungarian
BF Goodrich KO2 A/T was what I was hoping would fit but the smallest is a 255/55R18 which is a 29" diameter tire...
- I think the wheel well would fit a 29" tire but I'm not sure about tire clearance when turning front tires
- Also steering knuckle/ upper control arm would definitely hit (unless a 15-25mm spacer would give clearance needed).
Option #2 is the same tire i1 Tesla used the Toyo Open Country A/T III which is offered in a 225/55R18 which is a 27.7" diameter tire.
-i1 Tesla used a 255/55R19 which is a 30" tire on Model Y which I'm assuming has larger wheel wells)
- The 225/55 (8.9") is also a narrower tire than the 235/45 (9.3") that come stock on Tesla 18's so maybe that would clear knuckle/control arm?
Currently have Michelin Primacy MXM4 all seasons for the summer and Michelin Latitude X-ice XI2 for the winter.
Thoughts? RIP range
Is this a 17" wheel with 215/55R17 tire??So... this? View attachment 35109
Thats:Summer 280Wh/mi
Winter 318Wh/mi
Disgusting power consumption? Yep.
Regrets? None. Would recommend a Model Y though now that it is for sale.
Like this?I have to say, personally I want a Model Y lowered to make it more of a sporty hatchback...
But seeing i1Tesla's perfectly raised Y with high profile wheels made me realize it looks so much better and more naturally like an SUV with a bit more height!
In other words, Tesla picked something in the middle which when they should have offered both. Loving that @MountainPass offers both options, and I hope they see a big payoff for that!
Looks great and very well put together!Got a 35mm kit TÜV approved togheter with German company Delta 4x4, this is the resultThe rims are drilled with a -7,5mm et, just enough to fit 245/50r18 tires. Follow the car on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/technobingo/
Got a 35mm kit TÜV approved togheter with German company Delta 4x4, this is the resultThe rims are drilled with a -7,5mm et, just enough to fit 245/50r18 tires. Follow the car on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/technobingo/
To answer some of my own questions:Looks great and very well put together!
Would love to hear more about your setup (ex, are the light bars an off the shelf product or did you make it yourself? what's the width of your wheels? and why not mountain bikes =p?)
Even more answers:Got a 35mm kit TÜV approved togheter with German company Delta 4x4, this is the resultThe rims are drilled with a -7,5mm et, just enough to fit 245/50r18 tires. Follow the car on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/technobingo/
Got a 35mm kit TÜV approved togheter with German company Delta 4x4, this is the resultThe rims are drilled with a -7,5mm et, just enough to fit 245/50r18 tires. Follow the car on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/technobingo/
I suppose it highly depends on the consistency of the mud, black glue mud? yeah its going to not move at all, mostly watery mud that provide some buoyancy? not an issue:@Atraf when it rains that car ain't going anywhere! I'd say those tires are gonna be stuck AF in the mud. Stick to the gravel roads if you get that package.
The first four videos are Model 3? only the last two are different cars.Different car. Stock configuration Model Y is pretty competent IMO at least as much as any similar size Subaru. It's exactly the difference in ride height and wheelbase between a vehicle stuck-in and one that makes it through... from experience with Subaru's and a Model 3 anyhow. Open invitation anyone with a stock suspension/wheels Model Y (maybe some different tires if you want) wants to go mudding around I'll bring the orekart and we can compare![]()
You are correct @Mad Hungarian I just got confirmation, 18x8.5 ET+30mm.Hmmm, if those are 235/50R18's on a non-Performance car, then my guess is the offset is somewhere around +30.
Wish Tesla made one (and raced it / competed with it), would surly drive innovation (and would be hella cool to watch).
That does sound plausible, 9.0" reduces the effect, effect is most pronounced in center, max reported value is definitely at max supported speed & max heat - which I'm not realistically like to drive at, all true, would love to know what would you find in the ETRTO manuals, thank you so much @Mad Hungarian !You know you might still be able to get away with the 255/45R18 at +30 because the bulk of the expansion is going to happen at the center of the tire, not the shoulder where we're concerned about knuckle interference. I also think that max service diameter number is likely achieved at the tire's top rated speed, which you realistically aren't going to be reaching too often unless you're planning to track the car (or risk some big tickets). I'm going to the office this aft and I'll grab one of the ETRTO manuals and see if I can get any more details for you on that.
But I think it might work, especially if you use the 9.0" width to better stabilize carcass.
It's not even dirty yet... and where's the larger-than-life giant spoiler wing? No fake frunk clips?
You might even be able to go full lock on the steering without interference... unacceptable!
We're close, but not there yet. Try harder. We've got some catching up (with the Subaru WRX modders and pickup truck weenies) to do.
Any updates @Mad Hungarian ?
Oh hey, I found your older post that covers this, I assume nothing have changed :sweatsmile:@c2c asked me to chime in here on the tire width reduction part of the discussion, happy to oblige.
Although the ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization) does list an interesting number of narrower 18" tires that would fit, the narrowest suitable sizes that are commonly available in North America would be 215/50R18 or 215/55R18.
Both have load indexes that fall within the OE range for Model 3, so that's not a concern.
The 215/50R18 is 0.2" taller than OE and the 215/55R18 is a full inch taller than OE, so these would increase ride height 0.1" and 0.5" respectively.
Of course you won't get the same handling or ultimate grip that the OE 235/45R18 offers, but I don't think it would be dangerously worse. Probably somewhere in the range of a really soft 235/45R18 winter tire on dry asphalt as far as transient capabilities are concerned, so still plenty safe and likely won't drive the ESC crazy.
Note that the use of either of these sizes would require going to narrower wheels, they both have a rated rim width range of 6.0" to 7.5". I'd also recommend that the new narrower wheels have an offset of around +30, this will position the outer shoulder of the narrower tire similarly to that of the OE 235/45R18 on the OE +40 wheel and help ensure airflow around the wheel opening is disturbed as little as possible.
Did you ever find out if 225/60R17 works?I tried Discount Tires and although they were bound by corporate policy to require XL load rated tires for mounting on Tesla Model 3 applications (yeah they have some bull**** computer data nothing to be done about it) - the technician graciously offered to program and install the Schrader 33500 TPMS modules I'd provided to the wheels; at his insistence that the Schrader 34000 clamp in kits were all defective for not having a threaded inset (!?) I figured let it go as he's offered to program TPMS sensors for no cost, works for me, so they were installed as pull-through style. True to the exacting corporate policy he had me sign for a zero dollar receipt of the TPMS programming work performed. Moving on...
I tried a few other shops to finally get an alignment done since I'd not yet done that after installing the MPP Lift Kit. What a bunch of nonsensical horse**** I heard from the corporate owned franchise shops that offered alignment services (Les Schwab Tires among others). Frustrating as hell. Everything from "fire hazard it will burn down our shop" to "too expensive to have in our shop" and "we don't work on modified suspensions" (while I'm looking right at a few extreme lift non-stock pickup trucks in the bays) It's just a car with normal suspension components but none of the big shops within a reasonable distance of home would take the risk to work on it.
Found a local wheel and tire shop in the industrial part of town with some down-to-earth technicians, and they took the car for alignment and all went super smoothly. What exactly is the malfunction for the big fancy pants corporate franchises? I am amazed.
More detail about how I got the alignment done in my post on the MPP Lift Kit Thread
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While the car was on the rack we mounted the 215/60R17 Yokohama A/T G015 tires on the new BRAID 17x7+25 wheels and installed.
So... this is the first Tesla in the world on 17's and All-Terrain tires?
Clearance details:
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Rear wheel fore suspension link bolt head
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Stock Aero 18x8.5's have this milled out bit between the lug positions, while aftermarket wheels do not.
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When installing aftermarket wheels you will need to unbolt the smaller locating bolt (one per rotor at one of the holes between lug stud locations) which are a holdover from the manufacturing process.
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View 1-of-3 from inside the rear wheel outward looking at the rear calipers and brake line banjo bolt.
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View 2-of-3 from inside the rear wheel outward looking at the rear calipers and brake line banjo bolt.
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View 3-of-3 from inside the rear wheel outward looking at the rear calipers and brake line banjo bolt.
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The stick-on wheel weights for tire balancing would rub on the rear brake line banjo bolt. The weights would certainly not fit in line with the rear brake calipers so to clear those obstacles they need to be inline with the landing between the banjo bolt and where the brake calipers become largest in profile. The shop technician's comment was that there is no lip on the BRAID wheel to mount an alternative clip-on wheel weight.
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Front wheel clearance to steering knuckle view 1-of-2
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Front wheel clearance to steering knuckle view 2-of-2
I'm curious to learn if a 225/60R17 tire could be crammed on there but I don't think I'll be trying any time soon. As-is now with 215/60R17 that is as close to the steering knuckle as I care to get on a big flexible tire.
Driving differences are it feels fine in dry paved road, the road noise is noticeably increased over stock Aero 18's, nothing feels dangerously bad from the first impression on surface streets, 70mph highway pavement, gravel roads, and dirt roads. On level pavement the clearance is sitting at about 18cm (7in) ground to skateboard with the weight of a set of Aero 18's wheels and tires loaded in the vehicle. I liked the feel over rough gravel and dry dirt better than stock, it seems to smooth out those conditions especially with respect to the stiffer feeling suspension after having installed the MPP Lift Kit.
Mud and snow testing will have to wait.
It's either portal axles or aftermarket front upper knuckle that retains same wheel geometry and same strength as OEM part but otherwise is shaped differently to allow more clearance.
Thank you!OK, back to being (or attempting to be) helpful...
Here are the relevant pages from the ETRTO Engineering Design manual that cover the dimensional parameters and their associated formulas.
The entries you're concerned with are number 9 on the 2nd page and number 11 on the 3rd page.
As you'll see, the Maximum Overall Diameter in Service would basically appear to be some 4% larger than the Maximum Design Overall Diameter. Now that's the max, the actual growth in service can be (and in most cases almost certainly is) less, however unless the manufacturer is willing to share their test data for the exact SKU in question we're still left to assume it falls somewhere between 0% and 4% growth.
Again, because your potential interference point is really only at the shoulder where I expect growth to be minimal, I don't think this will be an issue.
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