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Credit where credit is due, @Rcnesneg was right on the money with the sub-frame lifting.Looks like these guys, after lifting the car, lowered the motors as to combat some geometry issues, they also made many bespoke suspension arms/parts to provide more clearance and at the end used something like MPP's PartyBox to defeat the traction control and other safety features.

I grabbed some photos from their second video:
Thanks for getting the still shots!

I wonder what they did with the shear plate on the rear subframe? The shear plate bolts to the bottom of the rear subframe under the front mounts and does something but I'm not sure what yet. In order to drop the subframe it needs to be removed. That is the biggest issue I've found with the subframe lift thing. Maybe they just left it off? Also not sure about the steering rack in the front and if it's flexible enough to handle the change in angle.
 

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[...] and at the end used something like MPP's PartyBox to defeat the traction control and other safety features.

I grabbed some photos from their second video:

View attachment 46575
That's the "Bonus Module" from Ingenext. (He says "We have a control module from Canada to turn off all the DC." — whatever he means by "DC". Diagnostic Codes, maybe?) It has a setting to switch off all stability systems except ABS. (I just mentioned it in my previous post.) I have the "Boost 50" from Ingenext that is the "Bonus" plus a 50 HP power increase to 500 HP (to make up for the 13 % torque loss by the larger tires I mounted).

The tires are sticking out of the body a bit too much for my taste. And the fender flares don't fit the car. Apart from that they did a great job.
 

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Thanks for getting the still shots!

I wonder what they did with the shear plate on the rear subframe? The shear plate bolts to the bottom of the rear subframe under the front mounts and does something but I'm not sure what yet. In order to drop the subframe it needs to be removed. That is the biggest issue I've found with the subframe lift thing. Maybe they just left it off? Also not sure about the steering rack in the front and if it's flexible enough to handle the change in angle.
Pretty sure their vehicle is a Model Y not a Model 3, not sure which year, perhaps that's how?
Also, they mentioned in the video, though its a little hard to tell, that after lifting the car in several ways (vertical suspension spacer, coilover, subframe) they then lowered the motors as they didn't want to fabricate even more parts and the OEM parts couldn't support such large lifting.
They say they lifted in total 8" but that the motors were then dropped 4"

I really wish someone could summon this guy to this post/forum, would also love to know if they have any plans to make any of those parts available for purchase, I have been dying for an aftermarket front upper knuckle so that I could fit bigger tires in the front, currently on 245/40R19 and sadly neither 245/55R19 nor 255/40R19 fits due to front upper knuckle making full contact with the tire.



That's the "Bonus Module" from Ingenext. (He says "We have control module from Canada to turn off all the DC." — whatever he means by "DC". Diagnostic Codes, maybe?) It has a setting to switch off all stability systems except ABS. (I just mentioned it in my previous post.) I have the "Boost 50" from Ingenext that is the "Bonus" plus a 50 HP power increase to 500 HP (to make up for the 13 % torque loss by the larger tires I mounted).

The tires are sticking out of the body a bit too much for my taste. And the fender flares don't fit the car. Apart from that they did a great job.
Ingenext! RIGHT! I totally forgot about them, in my mind somehow "Canadian company" = MPP, and they do have a "partybox" for same purpose except theirs doesn't do the 50hp addition.

The shot where the car is climbing a dune hill and thus have its front suspension fully compressed on driver side shows just how much travel they use (vs the shot form the side when they are driving fast ground fast), without that level of travel (if it was fixed) they could have probably gotten away with much bigger tire.

They could also ... contact @74weld on IG and manufacture portal axles and gain extra 5" which could allow them to easily use 35" tires

And I agree, those flares are ugly, it looks like weekend project from scrap yard, as oppose to Delta4x4 that looks OEM+, but can't argue with results.

The range though, is not so bad, they get 150 km in dunes, I wonder whats their highway range, many months ago I shared extra grainy photos from Saudia Arabia of a Model 3 with big AT tires (and flares that are almost just as ugly), that one reportedly only gets 37 miles of range, but the guy says its only 37 miles because once he gets into the car he puts the foot down to the metal and doesn't let go for 37 miles
He also tows (on a huge semi truck) an industrial power generator equivalent of V2 supercharger and charges the car back up in under an hour, in the desert. I'm pretty sure I made that post on the other tesla unofficial forum and MPP chimed in saying that there should be a law of physics against that
 

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MPP is making a big secret of their location by using a US TLD and never stating a postal address. I therefore never realized they are not in the US, although I bought from them and communicated. But Toronto (King) is nearly US anyway. ;)
 

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A law of physics against what?
As a tongue in cheek for how ludicrous it is to have a sand buggy made from Model 3 (level 1), bring it to the dunes on back of semi truck (level 2) and also carry on that semi truck a 250kW industrial generator so you could run the model 3 100% to 0% about 8 times from sun rise to sun set
Not a cheap hobby
 

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Grabbed some screenshots of their other Model Y, take a look at that suspension they built
 

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I'm astonished that the cheap generator they used was able to charge the car! (speaking of sine wave and delicate electronic devices aka electric cars) I bought a generator nearly five times the price and half the output to make sure it can charge the car. Did I just waste money??
 

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I just ordered this combo for the rear axle: 265/70R17 MT on 8x17.
Both as cheap as possible for testing purposes. Curious of the outcome. :)

What do you bet on? Will they fit (with spacers)?
Yesterday night I realized that the tires I ordered have nearly one inch more radius(!) than the ATs I'm currently driving. (Somehow I always thought of diameter instead of radius.) Today I looked at the current setup and had an oh crap moment. By the looks there's only ½ inch space to the front of the fender! :/ And I probably can't move the wheel in enough to be completely inside the wheel house, due to 17" rims being too small for the strangely big brake rotors.
I could send the wheels back before they get mated, but ... I don't want. Damn it. There must be a solution. It's a non-steered axle after all...

You can see the problem in this picture (hidden behind the hurled up sand):
Vehicle Car Automotive tire Wheel Tire

The rear wheel housings have a strange shape. In the front they get a lot closer to the wheels than anywhere else.
 

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I think it's the same car in the two videos! They optically restored it as much as possible. Like they had to bring it through Chinese TÜV. :D
I thought so too as they uploaded a short video awhile back of the orange car dead because the 12v died and the big battery depleted and they can't open the hood because they welded the roll cage to the tow hook and blocked the two wires that are there ... so maybe they cut it all out and then removed the wrap

I'm astonished that the cheap generator they used was able to charge the car! (speaking of sine wave and delicate electronic devices aka electric cars) I bought a generator nearly five times the price and half the output to make sure it can charge the car. Did I just waste money??
You can charge your MacBook Pro with the Apple charger and you can charge it with generic charger, one of these two have higher odds of catching fire, you did nothing wrong.
ex:
Circuit component Passive circuit component Product Hardware programmer Electronic component

left = generic, right = Apple, both do 85w, who do you trust with your $3,000 laptop is your choice...

Also they said it took them the whole night to charge the car back up, so its probably outputting less than 240v 32a, but more than 110v 15a as the former is 5hr to full and the later is 36hr to full, how long does it take yours to fill the car up?
Also ages ago there was a guy that mounted a generator on a bike rack behind his model X and took it on some off road trail that's 500 miles long, mentioned people being shocked seeing a tesla on it, i think he was covering some event and using the car as support vehicle, wish I had a link.. forgot which generator he had

Yesterday night I realized that the tires I ordered have nearly one inch more radius(!) than the ATs I'm currently driving. (Somehow I always thought of diameter instead of radius.) Today I looked at the current setup and had an oh crap moment. By the looks there's only ½ inch space to the front of the fender! :/ And I probably can't move the wheel in enough to be completely inside the wheel house, due to 17" rims being too small for the strangely big brake rotors.
I could send the wheels back before they get mated, but ... I don't want. Damn it. There must be a solution. It's a non-steered axle after all...

You can see the problem in this picture (hidden behind the hurled up sand): View attachment 46641
The rear wheel housings have a strange shape. In the front they get a lot closer to the wheels than anywhere else.
Time to start cutting :X
Excellent observation though
 

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so maybe they cut it all out and then removed the wrap
I very much think so. The "rock slider" part of the cage is still attached to the gray car!

You can charge your MacBook Pro with the Apple charger and you can charge it with generic charger, one of these two have higher odds of catching fire, you did nothing wrong.
ex: View attachment 46649
left = generic, right = Apple, both do 85w, who do you trust with your $3,000 laptop is your choice...
Yes, that's hopefully the difference between my $2500 generator (made in China) and the $560 Chinese one they showed in the video.
Your left example looks easier to repair, though. :)

But actually I was astonished that the car doesn't reject such a bad sine wave as an AC power source!

Also they said it took them the whole night to charge the car back up, so its probably outputting less than 240v 32a, but more than 110v 15a as the former is 5hr to full and the later is 36hr to full, how long does it take yours to fill the car up?
I didn't test it so far, but it puts out 5 kW (@230 V) pure sine wave continuously. I'm currently building an alu box with holes, hatches and lattices to insulate it, before putting the whole construction on my tiny trailer. That's the first step of converting the tiny trailer to a travel trailer.

The cheap Chinese generator is rated at 8 kW (@220 V) continuous, so around 36 A !? (more than the MY can take, I think) Main disadvantage is certainly the incredible noise that thing is making! Only applicable in the desert, when sleeping a mile away from the car! :D

Also ages ago there was a guy that mounted a generator on a bike rack behind his model X and took it on some off road trail that's 500 miles long, mentioned people being shocked seeing a tesla on it, i think he was covering some event and using the car as support vehicle, wish I had a link.. forgot which generator he had
Reminds me of that guy that put a cheap and super loud high output generator in the trunk of his Model S. :)

Time to start cutting :X
I also don't want! ;) I have no problem removing plastic and even cutting it to some degree, like I did in the front to get rid of the slight rubbing at certain steering angles, but I won't cut any metal parts (as long as the car isn't fully paid off).
 

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But actually I was astonished that the car doesn't reject such a bad sine wave as an AC power source!
Telsa probably optimize towards not leaving you stranded, and the car does have some smarts on its side to account for some edge cases...

I didn't test it so far, but it puts out 5 kW (@230 V) pure sine wave continuously. I'm currently building an alu box with holes, hatches and lattices to insulate it, before putting the whole construction on my tiny trailer. That's the first step of converting the tiny trailer to a travel trailer.

The cheap Chinese generator is rated at 8 kW (@220 V) continuous, so around 36 A !? (more than the MY can take, I think) Main disadvantage is certainly the incredible noise that thing is making! Only applicable in the desert, when sleeping a mile away from the car! :D
Might be worthwhile, next time somewhere it wont bother people (side of highway? forest?) to try charge with it and see how much battery you gain in 20 min.

Reminds me of that guy that put a cheap and super loud high output generator in the trunk of his Model S. :)
Since he didn't show the build process or any of the internal wiring .. I am not even sure if its for real charging his car while in motion, sorry, not charging but providing electricity instead of battery... which is what is claimed in that video, that would require some serious engineering ... odds are its just non-driving charging... if the guy isn't a liar he should put the car on a truck scale to show it doesn't have the weight of a regular car + battery (because again, claim here is that he replaced battery with generator, not to mention that car changes how much electricity its asking for VERY quickly which I don't think power generator can spike like that..) .. also that car was not looking lifted, if you remove the weight of the battery... wont the car sit much higher?

I also don't want! ;) I have no problem removing plastic and even cutting it to some degree, like I did in the front to get rid of the slight rubbing at certain steering angles, but I won't cut any metal parts (as long as the car isn't fully paid off).
Time To Do Some Sketchy ****! Credit redsbodyworks - your car's buyer when you eventually sell it =p
 

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Telsa probably optimize towards not leaving you stranded, and the car does have some smarts on its side to account for some edge cases...
I could imagine that Tesla cars sold in second world countries have AC chargers that are more tolerant to bad AC. Probably even utility AC is much worse there. Just a theory of mine... Did you see the two charge sockets? Also looks way less professional than the CCS.

Might be worthwhile, next time somewhere it wont bother people (side of highway? forest?) to try charge with it and see how much battery you gain in 20 min.
It's easy to calculate: A full charge would take me around 13 hours, i.e. an extended overnight stay, so 20 minutes would bring 2.5 %. (The gains are as sad as the ones from my solar roof :( )
But testing my 200 lbs heating oil generator is on my list for next summer...

Time To Do Some Sketchy ****! Credit redsbodyworks - your car's buyer when you eventually sell it =p
The sad thing is, my Model 3 was repaired this way in 2020. I rented it out and the renter crashed the rear right quarter panel and the wheel into a wall when reversing. (I never found out what actually happened. The tire was ripped open on his photos.) That was in France, so he took it to the Tesla body shop in Lyon during his rental period. And they repaired it in a similar way for 4k, despite being a TABS! I asked another 1.6k from him after I found out, when inspecting the "repaired" damage in my garage at home directly after the return. Not sure if that was enough... The paint came off the fender edge at the wheel house a year later! Completely stopped renting out my cars since then...
 

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Some rich Chinese "offroading" an M3P:

Best tires ever for that kind of surface! :D Credits to the traction control system!
besides wrong tire size & type.... maybe airing down could have helped? honestly terrible route, road made from wet unformed clay thats totally soaked, sharp turns with bad curves
I also have no idea whats going on, he went up, then went down, then when it got even muddier form the rain he decided to try go up again?
 

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besides wrong tire size & type.... maybe airing down could have helped? honestly terrible route, road made from wet unformed clay thats totally soaked, sharp turns with bad curves
I also have no idea whats going on, he went up, then went down, then when it got even muddier form the rain he decided to try go up again?
Airing down these flat tires would only increase the risk of sidewall damage. Zero traction gain IMHO.

It's that channels test track. (like I have mine) They invited this driver to show off his car's capabilities. The car was definitely more capable than the driver. But the driver had dedication at least. A bit too much more my taste, though. (denting and scraping the rear left quarter panel on the guard rail)
 

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Airing down these flat tires would only increase the risk of sidewall damage. Zero traction gain IMHO.

It's that channels test track. (like I have mine) They invited this driver to show off his car's capabilities. The car was definitely more capable than the driver. But the driver had dedication at least. A bit too much more my taste, though. (denting and scraping the rear left quarter panel on the guard rail)
would be interesting to see a Model Y with mud terrain tires, in off road driving mode, trying that test route

looks like route for snowmobile(chains..)
 

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Has anyone out there installed a lift kit on a Model 3 that you are pleased with? I see a number of different ones available, some are 'spring-over' and others just spacers.
I've not yet purchased a Model 3 and was actually looking at Model Y's - where I live (out in the sticks) I need the ground clearance of the Y but from pic's I've seen on line, a Model 3 with a lift kit which typically adds 1.75 in would work.

Thoughts and comments would be most welcome.
Thanks
Jan
 
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