Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but here goes I'm in the process of buying a model 3 performance all doors locked and flat battery I've been told I won't be able to open the funk like normal behind the towing cover ?? One of the rear widows is open so my question is if I get inside and use the manual release for the drivers door can I then use the cables at the front to open the funk or will the car still think the doors are locked any advise welcome
daveclareten
There is no manual wired release from the inside.
If the 12V battery is still alive, you should be able to use the cardkey and get in.
If the 12V battery is dead, you should be able to use the release that you are referring to.
If you can't, then something is wrong with the car and buyer beware.
You can also plug the car in, even if using a generator and get things woken up
If the 12V battery is still alive, you should be able to use the cardkey and get in.
If the 12V battery is dead, you should be able to use the release that you are referring to.
If you can't, then something is wrong with the car and buyer beware.
You can also plug the car in, even if using a generator and get things woken up
Try to open the frunk from the wires behind the tow cover first. If it won't open, and won't even make a sound, that means the 12V battery has power (the emergency release doesn't work in that case).
If the frunk won't open, get the front door open, sit in the driver seat, hold down the brake, and then press both scroll wheels for about 10 seconds. Another 10-20 seconds later, the MCU should come alive.
Next place to go if that doesn't work is release the latches holding in the rear seat and pull it up. Check if the PCS connector (it looks like a long connector at the end of a cable) is plugged in, because someone might have unplugged it. If it's already plugged in, unplug it for 10 seconds or so, plug it back in, and try the step in the paragraph above.
If none of that works, unplug PCS again, and then try the emergency release in the tow cover again. That won't release if PCS is keeping the 12V battery barely alive, but if you cut off PCS, the 12V either has to stand on its own, or die. If the tow hook popper still doesn't work, come back in a few hours and try again (it might take some time for the 12V to drop below minimum voltage). This will probably work, if nothing else does. Trying to start the MCU with the step in the 2nd paragraph might hurry along the death of the 12V battery.
And finally, if all of that fails, it's possible that the 12V battery is strong, and the MCU is what's dead. That's going to be difficult to untangle, but not impossible. Evaluate your skills and budget, and see if you're up for some work or some Service Center interaction.
It's not likely a nickle based battery is toast, but it's still possible. That doesn't cause these kinds of symptoms, however, usually that would be dead HV battery, then dead LV battery, and no problem at all opening the frunk from the tow connector.
If the frunk won't open, get the front door open, sit in the driver seat, hold down the brake, and then press both scroll wheels for about 10 seconds. Another 10-20 seconds later, the MCU should come alive.
Next place to go if that doesn't work is release the latches holding in the rear seat and pull it up. Check if the PCS connector (it looks like a long connector at the end of a cable) is plugged in, because someone might have unplugged it. If it's already plugged in, unplug it for 10 seconds or so, plug it back in, and try the step in the paragraph above.
If none of that works, unplug PCS again, and then try the emergency release in the tow cover again. That won't release if PCS is keeping the 12V battery barely alive, but if you cut off PCS, the 12V either has to stand on its own, or die. If the tow hook popper still doesn't work, come back in a few hours and try again (it might take some time for the 12V to drop below minimum voltage). This will probably work, if nothing else does. Trying to start the MCU with the step in the 2nd paragraph might hurry along the death of the 12V battery.
And finally, if all of that fails, it's possible that the 12V battery is strong, and the MCU is what's dead. That's going to be difficult to untangle, but not impossible. Evaluate your skills and budget, and see if you're up for some work or some Service Center interaction.
It's not likely a nickle based battery is toast, but it's still possible. That doesn't cause these kinds of symptoms, however, usually that would be dead HV battery, then dead LV battery, and no problem at all opening the frunk from the tow connector.
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