[ModelBeach]

I think I know the answer to this, but maybe there is something I am overlooking.

Any differences in charging with a Tesla Mobile Connector vs a Clippercreek Level 2 HCS-40P?

I already have the Clippercreek from my Chevy Volt days, and also have new Tesla Mobile Connector since I take delivery soon. Each of the mentioned are connected via NEMA 14-50.

One advantage of the Clippercreek is the extra 5 feet, which is helpful with my garage setup. And, that unit is seriously robust.

See below for specs on the Clippercreek.

 

[shareef777]

Outside of having to use the J1772 adapter, they’re the same.

 

[JerryR]

The Tesla comes with a J1772 to a Tesla adaptor so you can use the existing Clippercreek to charge. Just keep the Tesla Mobile connector in the Tesla Fronk in case you need it when traveling.

The Clippercreek HCS-40P will put out 32 Amps, the same as the mobile Tesla connector.

I have an 8 year old hard wired Eaton EVSE from my Leaf days that I use when charging my Telsa. It puts out 30 amps which is fine. It barely reached the Telsa so I bought a 20 foot J1772 Extension cable form Amazon for $150. Now I have a 44 foot long reach.

I keep a Nissan Leaf 120/240 J1772 EVSE in my Fronk for traveling. It also connects to either a 15 amp 120 vac or a 14-50 50 Amp 240 outlet.

 

[jsmay311]

It’s nice to be able to use the button on the handle of the UMC to open the charge port. It’s more reliable for me than tapping on the charge port door, which is hit-and-miss on my Model 3.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Using an adapter every time to charge the Tesla would be annoying to me as it either sticks to the car or the wand.

Many non-Tesla chargers can do 40A on a NEMA 14-50 which would give it some advantage if a quick charge matters to you.

This only applies if you have a LR or Performance as the SR/RWD is limited to 32A regardless of the charger used.

 

[ModelBeach]

Thanks for your replies. I have both, so I can experiment with it.

BTW, when I first had my 14-50 outlet installed 7 years ago, I let the electrician talk me into aluminum wire (6 guage) for the 70 foot cable run from the breaker box to my garage, although I knew copper was best. He made it seem like aluminum was a no-brainer, and it was cheaper, although he did bring up the issue of aluminum expansion and how over time it may loosen connections (I recently checked the 14-50 outlet and they are still OK). I just said "OK" at the time, and thought it didn't really matter back then with my Chevy Volt, as it only pulled 15 amps via that 240 volt 14-50 outlet.

I just had a new 14-50 outlet installed (by another electrician) with copper wire (6 guage) as the Tesla mobile connector spec sheet calls for that. He thought I was crazy spending another wad of $$$ for a copper wire run, as he said the aluminum would be perfectly OK, even after showing him the spec sheet.

I'll use that old aluminum wire 14-50 outlet if I ever get another car/device with low amp requirements. Or upgrade it to copper if I get another Tesla.

 

[shareef777]

Thanks for your replies. I have both, so I can experiment with it.

BTW, when I first had my 14-50 outlet installed 7 years ago, I let the electrician talk me into aluminum wire (6 guage) for the 70 foot cable run from the breaker box to my garage, although I knew copper was best. He made it seem like aluminum was a no-brainer, and it was cheaper, although he did bring up the issue of aluminum expansion and how over time it may loosen connections (I recently checked the 14-50 outlet and they are still OK). I just said "OK" at the time, and thought it didn't really matter back then with my Chevy Volt, as it only pulled 15 amps via that 240 volt 14-50 outlet.

I just had a new 14-50 outlet installed (by another electrician) with copper wire (6 guage) as the Tesla mobile connector spec sheet calls for that. He thought I was crazy spending another wad of $$$ for a copper wire run, as he said the aluminum would be perfectly OK, even after showing him the spec sheet.

I'll use that old aluminum wire 14-50 outlet if I ever get another car/device with low amp requirements. Or upgrade it to copper if I get another Tesla.

I'm in agreement with the electricians. I've got a ~40ft run of #6 copper for my WC, but am pulling 48A constantly charging 2 vehicles. #6 aluminum would have been fine for 32A.

 

[bevelsport]

I have the exact same EVSC (from my Volt days also) and we are doing just fine.

 

[fritter63]

I would not try to use the mobile connector long term. I say this having tried it last summer. It seemed to work for awhile, but then I started getting thermal fault errors on the charger. In all cases, unplugging it for awhile resolved the issue, and this was during the height of hot summer days here (100 F +).

After discussing with Tesla service, they told me it wasn't really intended to be used like that (left plugged in while not in use, etc). And there now a slight "burnt" smell to the charging body. So I ended up buying the Tesla wall wall connector. This was for the second charger. We also have a Clipper 40 amp charger with a Tesla adapter, and have had no issues with that.

One advantage of the Tesla is that clicking the button on the charger plug will automatically open the charge port door for you, but I've found that's only if the car is actually awake. But in that case, you can do the same just by touch the port door as well. So not as convenient as you might think.

My only complaint about the Tesla connector is that you can't specify a cover plate (besides the default white), so it's annoying to have to pay additional for a different color.

 

[PNWmisty]

I think I know the answer to this, but maybe there is something I am overlooking.

Any differences in charging with a Tesla Mobile Connector vs a Clippercreek Level 2 HCS-40P?

Yes, the biggest difference is that the Tesla Mobile Connector is made for your Tesla while the Clippercreek is not, which is why it requires the use of an adapter.

I avoid adapters because they create four more points of resistance when charging and is one more component that can fail/degrade. And you can't charge your car without a working adapter unless you have a native charging solution.

Always install a unit that has a cable that matches your charge port. That way you only need an adapter for the occasional charging of a friends non-Tesla EV. EV's using a Tesla North American Standard charge port greatly outnumber non-Tesla's. In North America there are 4 Tesla for every EV that requires a J1772 adapter. Sure, Tesla detractors have claimed "the competition is coming" for over a decade now, but they are perpetually wrong. Tesla still makes more EV's than all the rest combined and that is not looking like it's about to change anytime soon.

 

[khorton]

I see no reason to avoid using the Clippercreek, but I'd purchase a second J1772 adapter. Leave one on the end of the Clippercreek cable, and leave the second in the car for use on the road.

 

[slantidicular]

I see no reason to avoid using the Clippercreek, but I'd purchase a second J1772 adapter. Leave one on the end of the Clippercreek cable, and leave the second in the car for use on the road.

That is what I did. I have been charging my model S with an adapter on my Clipper Creek unit for 4 years now with no problems. Not yet anyway...

 

[tw1898]

I’ve used a my mobile charger regularly on my garage for about 4 yrs (2019 M3 LR) and just unplug it when I travel (it then goes in the sun trunk or frunk). No issues other than that it is starting to show some cosmetic wear. I’m thinking of getting either a second one (one always ready in the car) or a dedicated charger that I can plug in there (plug is a standard NEMA 14 whatever). Tbd. Doesn’t seem like a Tesla wall charger would do anything more for me — and future EV 2 might (repeat, might) be something other than a Tesla.

 

[ModelBeach]

I took delivery yesterday, and hooked up with my Clippercreek first, before the Mobile Connector and charged to 100% (LFP battery pack) at 32 amps.

Pretty cool feature in the app (and I guess in the car's dash too) that I can modify the amps.