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Does the dash cam switch to IR in dark or just dark images?

I see that there are several options being discussed of splitting the dash cam usb and phone charger by Y splitter or by a hub. The issue being that the power is being split between the dash cam and phone; hence, degrading the power available to charge.

Perhaps its easier to have 10,000mA power pack driving the two phones and the power pack into the other USB port so that when not being discharged, its charging to keep it topped off. this way, the flash drive is in one USB and the other into the power pack.
The big power banks almost always need to have a button pushed to turn them on, and will automatically turn off if the there isn't adequate power being drawn from it. There probably exist some that have fancy auto-on circuitry, or no sleep function, but they're not the $20 Amazon special power banks. I have one of the small 3000mA banks which does not sleep, and should work inline between a hub or splitter and a phone. The upside is they cost about $5, the downside is that the quality is very questionable.

The problem with the Y splitter isn't that it divides the power, as the USB memory drive uses a tiny amount compared to a charging phone. The problem is that iPhones won't charge from the power only side. A bus powered hub will limit the power available, because they were never really designed to provide charging levels of power.
 
Just FYI... I ordered the 64G version of the SanDisk 64GB Connect Wireless Stick Flash Drive before realizing that it was formatted exFAT. The car recognized it as a USB and it can be used for enjoy music but not for the dashcam.

But I WAS able to reformat it as FAT32. To do so you first need to format the drive as NTFS by right clicking on the drive on the computer and selecting format and then NTFS in the drop down. After it is NTFS you open AOMEI Partition Assistant, select the drive and use "NTFS to FAT32 converter" to convert formatting to FAT32. Then hit the Apply button and you are done.
 
If you have Windows and are looking into the partitioning option, here is a ridiculously easy tutorial from TMC member SomeJoe7777. This method may also solve some of the corruption issues.
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/thr...ds/v9-how-to-format-usb-into-2-partitions-for-dashcam-and-music-windows.132130/
Good guide. FWIW, though, I used diskpart.exe and the same procedure to setup and format the partitions on my USB drive (12 GB cam / 20 GB music), and the camera partition still became corrupt after a few days. So, I'm not so sure that this method will necessarily prevent the filesystem from becoming corrupt eventually.

That said, if you're going to roll with a single USB stick for dashcam and music, I'd definitely recommend partitioning it. That way, if and when the filesystem becomes corrupt, you can still listen to your music until you have a chance to remove the USB drive and fix the filesystem.
 
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Got the grey x for the first time this morning. Gonna pull the usb drive and repair and see if that fixes it like everyone else has been doing. I went ahead and reported it as a bug through the voice command.
I can't even get my computer to recognize the drive to try and fix it......and Tesla (person at Toronto SC) tells me that these various drives are causing headaches and that Tesla might come out with a tested//recommended drive.

I'm not going to buy another drive at this point, the dash cam software is obviously not quite right yet.
 
I have this drive.

SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 64GB...
I used my MacBook to repair the dashcam partition part of the drive, plugged it in and now it's working fine.
 
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Been using the dash cam for 3 days without any issue at all.

SanDisk Ultra Flair 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive

I just bought the 32Gb USB 3.0 drive pre-formatted to FAT32. Based on a chart someone posted earlier, its over 1000 hours at 32Gb so its more than enough for my needs.
 
Just FYI... I ordered the 64G version of the SanDisk 64GB Connect Wireless Stick Flash Drive before realizing that it was formatted exFAT. The car recognized it as a USB and it can be used for enjoy music but not for the dashcam.

But I WAS able to reformat it as FAT32. To do so you first need to format the drive as NTFS by right clicking on the drive on the computer and selecting format and then NTFS in the drop down. After it is NTFS you open AOMEI Partition Assistant, select the drive and use "NTFS to FAT32 converter" to convert formatting to FAT32. Then hit the Apply button and you are done.
Are you able to use the wireless feature to access the data after formatting? I have the same drive, and I can't get it to access it's own storage after formatting, if it's anything other that ExFAT it won't read it, and even restoring it to ExFAT it says there's nothing there. I'm on a Mac, so I went through APFS to partition before going back to FAT, but it's pure FAT/ExFAT now and just not working

EDIT: figured out out at least part of the problem, the drive must be powered off when formatting, to make it subsequently work for wireless access. Now to figure out if that works with partitions so I can use FAT32.

Edit2: yes, once it is formatted as FAT32, you can still access it wirelessly, as long as it was turned off when formatted. I didn't partition it, based on other comments saying music and TeslaCam can co-exist, will test that tomorrow.
 
I took the USB drive out, plugged into my Mac and did a repair using Disk Utility and its working again. I guess I'll just keep repairing if it gets grayed out again.
Well, it grayed out again today! Have not had a chance to do a repair on it. :confused:
 
Discussion starter · #250 ·
my usb drives video files are being ‘saved’, but they are only 8kb and the videos are 0 seconds long. I’ve not had an X on the cam icon, but something isn’t right
 
my usb drives video files are being 'saved', but they are only 8kb and the videos are 0 seconds long. I've not had an X on the cam icon, but something isn't right
Maybe try using a different flash drive. My drive saves recordings just fine but would show grey X after a few hours.
 
I found that if I pause the recording before I get out of the car, it'll start recording automatically when I get back in and everything is fine. But... if I forget to pause the recording before I leave the car, I get the grey X when I get back in. Pluging/unplugging doesn't make a difference - always have to go fix the drive on a PC. :(
 
3 times in 3 days for me. I always notice its corrupt when getting back into the car. So looks like it happens after car is shut down. Sure hope they release an update and fix this problem soon.
 
I found that if I pause the recording before I get out of the car, it'll start recording automatically when I get back in and everything is fine. But... if I forget to pause the recording before I leave the car, I get the grey X when I get back in. Pluging/unplugging doesn't make a difference - always have to go fix the drive on a PC. :(
Is there an ability to pause that I missed? If you tap on the icon it saves footage, but starts recording again after a successful save.
 
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