I'm not where I can look at mine right now, but I'm going to take a guess that you are about to experience a "duh" moment.

You have to remove the existing adapter from the mobile cable. See that piece of cord that's only a foot long? Notice that as it enters the the mobile adapter, there's a black piece of rubber about the same size as the top of the weird plug that you show. Grab the cord just above there and pull relatively hard. The old adapter will come out and you will immediately experience "duh"

Now rereading, just to make sure, this DOES REQUIRE that you have the Mobile Connector (tesla.com) If you don't, you can order or maybe see if your Service Center has one.

Look at Gen 2 NEMA Adapters (tesla.com) and see what the Tesla adapters look like.

 

Does this help to show how one of the pigtails connects to the mobile charger?

 

The Tesla end doesn't fit my chargeport.

What you bought is a NEMA adapter. It doesn't plug directly into the car - it plugs into a Tesla Mobile Connector. So purchase a Mobile Connector, then you'll be all set.

 

In addition to what others have said, are you sure you need that 50' length cable? Can you do with the 20' or so that comes with the Tesla mobile connector? Things should work more smoothly without an outrageously long extension cable. You just need to find the right, short adapter between the Tesla mobile connector and your 240V outlet.

 

It's about 30 feet from the wall socket to the charge port. A 25' extension cable was not enough.

I did not factor into my calculations that an adapter-for-the-adapter would be needed and this comes with 20' of cable. I guess I can return my 50' of cable and buy the 25' version. Thanks for pointing this out.

 

Thanks for the patient explanations and helpful photos, guys.

I did not consider the possibility that my NEMA 10-30 to Tesla adapter, itself requires a Tesla-to-Tesla charge port adapter. I have ordered it.

 

It makes me chuckle when people come here making snarky remarks about things they clearly don't know about... but I'll be nice.

The Mobile Connector is not just a $250 extension cord with adapters. It's the charger for the car. There are 7 different adapters used with it, depending on what type of plug you are using to charge your car. Each of the 7 possible wall plugs, has a specific amperage rating. The Mobile connector knows which wall outlet you are using, by which adapter you are using with the mobile connector. It then tells the car which type of outlet you are charging from, and then the car limits the charging amperage based on that outlet. For example... you plan to use a 14-30 outlet. That can't flow as much amps as a 6-50 or 14-50 outlet, so the car will limit the speed of your charging to safely use that 14-30 outlet. The mobile connector also has other safety features built into it, to protect the car itself from damage.

The only time you don't need the mobile connector, is when you are using a DC fast charger (i.e. Tesla Supercharger).

But you didn't waste your money.... you'll still need that adapter as the Mobile connector only comes with 14-50 and 5-15 adapters. Any other outlets you have to buy the proper adapter... which you have done.

 

The Mobile Connector is not just a $250 extension cord with adapters. It's the charger for the car.

For clarification, the charger is in the car. The mobile connector is a "smart" extension cord.

 

I always recommend EV owners get a Wall Connector and hardwire it to charge their car at home. It's more robust and has lower risk of fire over time. We are seeing too many fires and melted NEMA 14-50 outlets. Hardwiring is no more difficult than hardwiring a NEMA 15-50 outlet in place.

It's not likely that electric cars are going away anytime soon, and that implies every garage will need convenient and safe charging infrastructure. Now that the NACS standard is moving from the defacto standard to the official standard, it's a no-brainer. Not that it wasn't before.

 

I always recommend EV owners get a Wall Connector and hardwire it to charge their car at home. It's more robust and has lower risk of fire over time. We are seeing too many fires and melted NEMA 14-50 outlets. Hardwiring is no more difficult than hardwiring a NEMA 15-50 outlet in place.

It's not likely that electric cars are going away anytime soon, and that implies every garage will need convenient and safe charging infrastructure. Now that the NACS standard is moving from the defacto standard to the official standard, it's a no-brainer. Not that it wasn't before.

How many fires have you seen associated with NEMA 14-50 outlets?

 

The Tesla Mobile Connector is an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Service Equipment) Every EV uses some sort of EVSE to connect at home. Tesla uses a NACS plug/connector at the car input where most other EVs use J1772 plug/connectors. Tesla provided a J1772 to NASC adaptor with my Model Y so I could use a J1772 EVSE to charge my car.

EVSEs also use two-way communication between the EVSE and car's built in charger so that the correct charging current is set based on the maximum current the EVSE can provide as well as the maximum current the car's charger can receive.

 

I wanted the wall charger but the circuit breaker was too far and hard to reach, but a dryer outlet was on the other side of the wall.
1) TURN OFF BREAKER to dryer outlet. I then used the green splitter to share the outlet.
2) I bought an extension cord and cut off the female connector - I wanted a factory molded male end.
3) I exposed the wire on the cut side to the length specified in the wall adapter. Even though the cord is outdoor rated, I ran it through a piece of conduit to protect it from elements and weed wackers.
4) Inside the exposed wires were tightened down using included hex bit.
5) Put on the cover and turned the breaker on.
6) Follow instructions to configure the charger to 30 AMP (24 AMP usable)

It is critical to ensure that the charger will not use more than 30/24 AMP because that is all the outlet and wire is rated for. Any more will be a fire hazard or will melt things.

Most people will not drive enough to justify the full 60 AMP line, unless it is close to your breaker box.
This is the preferred method because the utility will only give lower rates if they can control the charge times. In my area they give .06 cents per KWH which is insanely cheap, but they don't turn it on until late at night.
Your charger is connected to evPulse - Sign in using your credentials and your utility can control charging and know how much is used so you can get the cheap rate. The mobile charger will not work with ev pulse so you cannot get the lower rate. There may be other methods used in other markets to let the utilities to control your charger. The wall charger is FAR more convenient since it is waterproof and can be left outside, if you dont have a garage.
Your rates will vary by region.

A few comments:
1) The 30AMP circuit is derated to 24AMPS as a 20% safety margin. This is an industry standard for safety. Safety standards are paid for dearly with blood - don't violate them.
2) Don't use the dryer at the same time you charge. If charging late at night, this should not be an issue unless you use the dryer at night. If you have room mates or forget, there are devices that can switch back and forth such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QPMHGX1 but it is extra expense, of course the green cable would not be needed. DO NOT try to plug and unplug cords instead of a splitter because the wall charger needs to be plugged in all the time and the outlets are not made for frequent insertion and removal. The springs and connectors will wear out causing a poor connection. A poor connection reduces contact area of the plug which will cause it to heat up - think of electricity like water being pushed through a compressed hose versus a nice open hose.
3) The Wall Charger needs a WIFI signal if that wasnt clear from my instructions.
4) A 24 AMP circuit will yield about 22 MPH charge, so if your commute is within 22 x (number of hours charging) you will have no problem with the reduced number of AMPS.

I am NOT an electrician, but my father is and checked over my setup and said it was sound for our area. As long as no house wiring is changed, you should not need a permit.

 

It is critical to ensure that the charger will not use more than 30/24 AMP because that is all the outlet and wire is rated for. Any more will be a fire hazard or will melt things.

Hopefully that circuit is connected to a 30 amp breaker, which should trip to protect the wiring in such cases.