[All About Jake]

Hi folks. I just released tesLAX v1.5 to the AppStore with many improvements and support for (some?) WiFi based OBD-2 dongles. I use the "vLinker MC WiFi" as it supports the ST-command set with filtering to prevent too much data from flooding the line. It should also work with WiFi-based ELM327 dongles, but the performance is terrible and you'll see lots of buffer overruns and dropped packets. -- good enough for casual viewing. (I've tested the "vGate iCar Pro" in this regard) Anything that supports AT- or ST- over a TCP connection should work

Since I can't test with every possible WiFi dongle on the market, let me know how it works for you. Send me a DM or find me on Discord.

This version has support for the new protocol extensions used by Josh's CANServer which now supports filtering.

Also I'm planning support for BLE-based dongles in a future update. If you have one of those, and are interested in beta testing, also reach out. (Note iOS only supports "Classic" bluetooth for certified accessories, meaning, the OBDLink MX+ is the only game in town. However, for "Bluetooth Low Energy" there is more freedom and more options. tesLAX will continue to only support the MX+ for traditional bluetooth, but in the next update hopes to work with "BLE" or "4.0" compatible dognles.... however I expect the performance to be poorer as the low-energy nature of BLE means its not good for high bandwidth stuff.)

 

[TeslaM3Tweaker]

There is more than one CAN bus in a Model 3 with different set of signals on each, where are you connecting to?

@kornerz, thanks for the reply. Yes, you are right there are multiple CAN buses (4 in total) where we have the data. I have a Bluetooth OBDLink adapter using which I was able t verify that the CAN bus I have tapped into has the Speed and RPM signals.

 

[TeslaM3Tweaker]

Yes, I am overdue to update it but have have been short on time lately. However Speed, RPM, Gear, and Torque haven't changed in a while, they should all work. You might not be looking at the right signals, or maybe you aren't plugged into the powertrain can bus.
Where are you plugging in? Share a screenshot or two from Vector and I can see if I can figure out what's missing.
For example, you should be viewing the DI_uiSpeed signal.

@JWardell, thanks for the reply. I can confirm that I am on the right bus. For speed, I am looking for 'ID3D9UI_gpsVehicleSpeed' signal. 'DI-uiSpeed' is not in the dbc file. And I apologize, right not I don't have the car with me so I won't be able to get the screenshots. But if there is anything you want me to elaborate on, I can do that.

Thanks again for your reply guys, I really appreciate it.

 

[JWardell]

@JWardell, thanks for the reply. I can confirm that I am on the right bus. For speed, I am looking for 'ID3D9UI_gpsVehicleSpeed' signal. 'DI-uiSpeed' is not in the dbc file. And I apologize, right not I don't have the car with me so I won't be able to get the screenshots. But if there is anything you want me to elaborate on, I can do that.

Thanks again for your reply guys, I really appreciate it.

You are looking for the UIspeed signals in 0x257 message. GPS speed is not always present.

 

[TeslaM3Tweaker]

You are looking for the UIspeed signals in 0x257 message. GPS speed is not always present.

Hmm I see, I think I couldn't get even that. But I will have to check. Is there any message that you will recommend for RPM (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), Gear (ID118DriveSystemStatus), Torque (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), and Accelerator Pedal Position (ID118DriveSystemStatus)? Messages in the parentheses are the ones I am looking for but couldn't find.

 

[pyjamasam]

Hmm I see, I think I couldn't get even that. But I will have to check. Is there any message that you will recommend for RPM (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), Gear (ID118DriveSystemStatus), Torque (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), and Accelerator Pedal Position (ID118DriveSystemStatus)? Messages in the parentheses are the ones I am looking for but couldn't find.

In a recent log file from my model 3 I see 0x186 on both chassis and vehicle busses, as well 0x108 and 0x118 are also on both busses. 0x257 is also on both busses.

chris.

 

[JWardell]

Hmm I see, I think I couldn't get even that. But I will have to check. Is there any message that you will recommend for RPM (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), Gear (ID118DriveSystemStatus), Torque (ID186DIF_torque, ID108DIR_torque), and Accelerator Pedal Position (ID118DriveSystemStatus)? Messages in the parentheses are the ones I am looking for but couldn't find.

Yeah something is wierd as you are looking for fairly common and well established messages. How and where are you connecting?

 

[TeslaM3Tweaker]

Yeah something is wierd as you are looking for fairly common and well established messages. How and where are you connecting?

I directly connect to the CAN bus (under the rear of the center console) then use a db9 connector cable to connect it with my Vector CANalyzer hardware. I also have an EVTV OBD II adapter which I have connected to the CAN bus. I used the OBD II outlet of the EVTV adapter to put my third-party Bluetooth dongle which reads RPM, Speed, etc. to confirm that the signal is on that bus.

 

[TeslaM3Tweaker]

In a recent log file from my model 3 I see 0x186 on both chassis and vehicle busses, as well 0x108 and 0x118 are also on both busses. 0x257 is also on both busses.

chris.

Hi Chris, thanks for the reply. How old is your Model 3 if I may ask. I looked for 0x118, 0x108, and 0x186 but could not find them. I will check again today, but it is doubtful that I missed all 3 of them.

 

[Madmolecule]

while using the canserver I have had to choose buss 1, (instead of any buss) for speedlimit and other signals to get them to function properly. (otherwise they were flashing on the screen). I don't know if these signal are on both busses also. I have an older 88K VIN 3 with upgraded computer

 

[pyjamasam]

Hi Chris, thanks for the reply. How old is your Model 3 if I may ask. I looked for 0x118, 0x108, and 0x186 but could not find them. I will check again today, but it is doubtful that I missed all 3 of them.

Hmm.. My 3 is from March 2020, and running 2020.48.35.5. 0x118 is a fairly important message based on its contents. Something seems really strange if it is missing.

chris.

 

[JWardell]

I directly connect to the CAN bus (under the rear of the center console) then use a db9 connector cable to connect it with my Vector CANalyzer hardware. I also have an EVTV OBD II adapter which I have connected to the CAN bus. I used the OBD II outlet of the EVTV adapter to put my third-party Bluetooth dongle which reads RPM, Speed, etc. to confirm that the signal is on that bus.

The EVTV adapter has two separate busses, so it echos some limited data to the OBD bus, which may be the issue.
Vector directly into the rear console can will definitely work, that's how I got my data for the first year.
Can you take a quick log, or look at a trace to see if the data is actually there?

 

[FrenchieEAP]

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but I'm part of the FSD Beta testers and I'm trying to see if there is an "easy" way to record the car screen on a Model 3. I'm not a tech guy so not sure if it would require to mirror the screen or other solution. Thanks!

 

[JWardell]

Sorry if this is a bit off topic but I'm part of the FSD Beta testers and I'm trying to see if there is an "easy" way to record the car screen on a Model 3. I'm not a tech guy so not sure if it would require to mirror the screen or other solution. Thanks!

None that I know of. Only folks who have hacked and rooted their whole system, and managed to install a VNC server.

 

[phil_ger]

Hi folks, I'm sorry that I just ask here, but I haven't found a more suitable thread. My father's 2021 Model 3 was delivered today and we wanted to read out the battery stats. I bent a PIN with the obd adapter cable (https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t11/) and now I can no longer get the vehicle connector on it. Does anyone have any advice on how I can best get the pin straight back without breaking it completely? The vehicle is currently not lockable! Thank you for every tip on the name of the connector to check whether I can pull out the defective pin individually, for example.

Thank you!!!
Regards Phil

 

[JWardell]

Hi folks, I'm sorry that I just ask here, but I haven't found a more suitable thread. My father's 2021 Model 3 was delivered today and we wanted to read out the battery stats. I bent a PIN with the obd adapter cable (https://www.gpstrackingamerica.com/shop/hrn-ct20t11/) and now I can no longer get the vehicle connector on it. Does anyone have any advice on how I can best get the pin straight back without breaking it completely? The vehicle is currently not lockable! Thank you for every tip on the name of the connector to check whether I can pull out the defective pin individually, for example.

View attachment 37114 View attachment 37115 View attachment 37113

Thank you!!!
Regards Phil

Looks like you should be able to squeeze and straighten it with some needle nose pliars?

 

[phil_ger]

Hi Josh, thanks for your reply!
Just want to give you an update and hope I can finally fix it this evening. I hope it wouldnt break
I only managed removing the connector from the center console in my lunch break... that was challenging!
This evening I try to bend back the pin. wasnt able to that with a small pointed tweezers. maybe with a piece of the blade of a cutter knife, then with a needle nose pliar as you recommended.
Please let me know if thats out of the threads scope. Otherwise the pics possibly helps others.

Regards, Phil

 

[Mike]

Hi Josh, thanks for your reply!
Just want to give you an update and hope I can finally fix it this evening. I hope it wouldnt break
I only managed removing the connector from the center console in my lunch break... that was challenging!
This evening I try to bend back the pin. wasnt able to that with a small pointed tweezers. maybe with a piece of the blade of a cutter knife, then with a needle nose pliar as you recommended.
Please let me know if thats out of the threads scope. Otherwise the pics possibly helps others.

View attachment 37120 View attachment 37121 View attachment 37122

Regards, Phil

I am not familiar with the specifics of repairing these Tesla connectors.

However, my experience with Ford connectors from the 1970s and 1980s as well as Toyota from the 2000s tells me there must be a release tang that will allow one to remove an individual male ended wire from that connector (i.e. release the locking tang from the wire input side, then pull the wire (and it's male end) out from the backside of the connector).

 

[JWardell]

Hi Josh, thanks for your reply!
Just want to give you an update and hope I can finally fix it this evening. I hope it wouldnt break
I only managed removing the connector from the center console in my lunch break... that was challenging!
This evening I try to bend back the pin. wasnt able to that with a small pointed tweezers. maybe with a piece of the blade of a cutter knife, then with a needle nose pliar as you recommended.
Please let me know if thats out of the threads scope. Otherwise the pics possibly helps others.

View attachment 37120 View attachment 37121 View attachment 37122

Regards, Phil

We spent a good deal of time early on in this thread discussing these connectors and how to tap into them.
Actually I am looking closely at the wiring I have on the 26 pin connector sheet of my spreadsheet... it looks to me like that bent pin should be unused, but strangely the pin next to it hat you have missing should be used. I'm surprised to see so many pins missing in your connector, all the connectors I see have all pins and pas through all signals.

Still it looks like you should be able to get in there and straighten it. If not I have links to some other sources

 

[phil_ger]

I am not familiar with the specifics of repairing these Tesla connectors.

However, my experience with Ford connectors from the 1970s and 1980s as well as Toyota from the 2000s tells me there must be a release tang that will allow one to remove an individual male ended wire from that connector (i.e. release the locking tang from the wire input side, then pull the wire (and it's male end) out from the backside of the connector).

Thank you!
Already tried with the obd adapter cable. same connectors but I wasnt able to pull those wires out because I have no tool fine enough to stick into the connector to release the pin. I saw several videos how to do that (like you described) but it seems to need a hard jerk to pull them out even with the right tool.

http://prd.sws.co.jp/components/en/detail.php?number_s=60985613

http://prd.sws.co.jp/components/en/detail.php?number_s=81003622

Nevertheless many thanks!

We spent a good deal of time early on in this thread discussing these connectors and how to tap into them.
Actually I am looking closely at the wiring I have on the 26 pin connector sheet of my spreadsheet... it looks to me like that bent pin should be unused, but strangely the pin next to it hat you have missing should be used. I'm surprised to see so many pins missing in your connector, all the connectors I see have all pins and pas through all signals.

Still it looks like you should be able to get in there and straighten it. If not I have links to some other sources

Thanks again!
A friend of mine received a Model 3 perf. just a week before us.
He made a picture for me and it looks like the same:

good news!
looks not perfect but I wanted to bent just as much as I should...
I checked the other side of the obd adapter cable and I have contact between the two pins with the adapter cable in between.
My thoughts was better the adapter cable instead of the other side (car) damaged if something goes wrong with the pin...
thanks for participation