[Ingineer]

VCSEC is powered from VCLEFT which is powered from VCFRONT. The DC-DC output goes straight up to VCFRONT. There is a junction lug on the top of VCRIGHT, but no electrical connection to VCRIGHT. VCRIGHT is powered down when the car is asleep.

 

[Oregonian]

VCSEC is powered from VCLEFT which is powered from VCFRONT. The DC-DC output goes straight up to VCFRONT. There is a junction lug on the top of VCRIGHT, but no electrical connection to VCRIGHT. VCRIGHT is powered down when the car is asleep.

Have you come across any markings for air suspension yet?

 

[Ingineer]

Yes, VCFRONT has unpopulated locations for a power feed for this.

 

[Ranova]

Because depending on current consumption it could discharge the AGM enough shorten it's life. Tesla will check the logs and likely deny warranty on i if so.. If it's a really light load, it shouldn't be a problem, but there are a wide range of dashcams and some are pretty hungry.

It seems that they have been nice and replacing 12V batteries at the moment when people were getting the Battery error message. Do you happen to know how many amps blackvues draw? They seem to be the most power hungry dash cams. I currently use their backup battery b124 to power it while in parking mode but it simply doesnt last as long as I need it to - so I was going to *sparingly* create another switch to switch it to the car's 12v battery when I need it on over 16 hours while parked.

 

[CoastalCruiser]

P3D

Tap 12 volts

 

[CircuitGuy]

Hope this helps someone, and a question. As @Ingineer said, you can remove the overhead console by prying. I'd recommend working a trim removal tool into the left and right sides. It does take some force.

Still not quite sure which of the two black wires is ground or what the best way to splice into them is. The yellow +12 V wire is pretty obvious. I'm thinking of soldering to the connector inside the console. Would appreciate any advice here.

 

[Defjukie]

Hope this helps someone, and a question. As @Ingineer said, you can remove the overhead console by prying. I'd recommend working a trim removal tool into the left and right sides. It does take some force.

Still not quite sure which of the two black wires is ground or what the best way to splice into them is. The yellow +12 V wire is pretty obvious. I'm thinking of soldering to the connector inside the console. Would appreciate any advice here.

I used something like this:


I *think* both black wires are ground, but I personally tapped into the one on the lower row (if you consider yellow the upper row).

Note: if you use t-taps like the ones linked above, make sure to tap the wires as far away from the harness connector as possible (requires cutting the tape that holds the bundle together), and at different heights for each wire. There is a very small cutout that these connectors have to pushed through when you go to put everything back, and if you tapped them too close to the connector, or at exactly the same height they will NOT fit through the opening.
Also, if you pull on the wire bundle with a little force, it will come out further and give you plenty of room to work with.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Hope this helps someone, and a question. As @Ingineer said, you can remove the overhead console by prying. I'd recommend working a trim removal tool into the left and right sides. It does take some force.

Still not quite sure which of the two black wires is ground or what the best way to splice into them is. The yellow +12 V wire is pretty obvious. I'm thinking of soldering to the connector inside the console. Would appreciate any advice here.

I used something like this:


I *think* both black wires are ground, but I personally tapped into the one on the lower row (if you consider yellow the upper row).

Note: if you use t-taps like the ones linked above, make sure to tap the wires as far away from the harness connector as possible (requires cutting the tape that holds the bundle together), and at different heights for each wire. There is a very small cutout that these connectors have to pushed through when you go to put everything back, and if you tapped them too close to the connector, or at exactly the same height they will NOT fit through the opening.
Also, if you pull on the wire bundle with a little force, it will come out further and give you plenty of room to work with.

Would mirror tap pins not work/fit into this harness?

Can't see the back of it from the posted pictures.

 

[Defjukie]

Would mirror tap pins not work/fit into this harness?

Can't see the back of it from the posted pictures.

Don't see any reason it wouldn't, assuming you're talking about something like a pin that goes straight into the back of the harness. It's a standard wiring harness.

 

[CircuitGuy]

Would mirror tap pins not work/fit into this harness?

Now that looks like a good idea! Ordered one of these: MIRRORTAP POWER CORDS MirrorTap MTX-2015, DC Plug, 15" Long from Amazon. I'll probably try it this weekend and get back to everybody.

Edit: Didn't work! 15" is not long enough to reach the port on the right side of my Blackvue. The 20" version should be perfect...

Edit 2: For future people asking. 15" is too short because of the weird path you take from the dome light, across the ceiling, around the mirror trim, and to your dash cam. For me, 15" was enough to exactly touch the camera, but not plug it in.

Also, unfortunately, this solution isn't working for me. The smallest mirror tap pins barely fit, and the connection hasn't been reliable. I'll be looking for another solution, probably with the Blackvue battery

 

[NJturtlePower]

Don't see any reason it wouldn't, assuming you're talking about something like a pin that goes straight into the back of the harness. It's a standard wiring harness.

Great! Yea that's how I set up my last detector as shown here:
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/radar-detector-wiring-options.6456/page-3#post-135889

They sell different sized pin kits depending on the harness connections and it's just plug-n-play once you know which wires to tap as we do now. Here's one example:


Most of the higher end detectors have a standby time / auto off option, so constant power or not this seems like a better and easier install than running wires all the way down to the foot well IMO.

 

[96s46p]

Any of those wires switched power and is there room up there to put 2 small PCBs?

 

[Defjukie]

Any of those wires switched power and is there room up there to put 2 small PCBs?

Not that I know of. And no, there's really no room for anything at all, unless it can be stuffed through an opening about 2" wide and 1" tall. The housing in which the assembly sits is completely sealed off, except where the wires come through.

But I have to ask... What are you trying to put up there?

 

[jonco223]

Here's how to pry out the dome light

 

[96s46p]

Not that I know of. And no, there's really no room for anything at all, unless it can be stuffed through an opening about 2" wide and 1" tall. The housing in which the assembly sits is completely sealed off, except where the wires come through.

But I have to ask... What are you trying to put up there?

Gate opener

 

[SoCal Cal]

It seems that they have been nice and replacing 12V batteries at the moment when people were getting the Battery error message. Do you happen to know how many amps blackvues draw? They seem to be the most power hungry dash cams. I currently use their backup battery b124 to power it while in parking mode but it simply doesnt last as long as I need it to - so I was going to *sparingly* create another switch to switch it to the car's 12v battery when I need it on over 16 hours while parked.

From Blackvue, DR750S-2CH in Parking Mode averages 300mA (3.6W at 12V, when GPS and Wi-Fi are OFF), 350mA (4.2W at 12V, when GPS and Wi-Fi are ON). So, would that not work for the overhead console tap?

 

[NR4P]

Nice place for switched power. Found it on youtube and I tried it.
And at 30 secs in, you see a bolt right above the push pin. That's ground.

 

[allanak]

Now that looks like a good idea! Ordered one of these: MIRRORTAP POWER CORDS MirrorTap MTX-2015, DC Plug, 15" Long from Amazon. I'll probably try it this weekend and get back to everybody.

Edit: Didn't work! 15" is not long enough to reach the port on the right side of my Blackvue. The 20" version should be perfect...

Where is your cam mounted that the 15" is too short? I'm looking to order a cam, a mirrortap kit and possibly the new Blendmount kit where I would think 15" would be plenty. I was going to order the 20" but that sounds like it might have a lot of slack.

 

[rlb4]

Great! Yea that's how I set up my last detector as shown here:
https://teslaownersonline.com/threads/radar-detector-wiring-options.6456/page-3#post-135889

They sell different sized pin kits depending on the harness connections and it's just plug-n-play once you know which wires to tap as we do now. Here's one example:


Most of the higher end detectors have a standby time / auto off option, so constant power or not this seems like a better and easier install than running wires all the way down to the foot well IMO.

Did you get the mirror tap pin cord for your radar detector? Which One? Do you know where to insert the pins? I have this on my G37X and it is very neat looking and easy to do without splicing wires.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Did you get the mirror tap pin cord for your radar detector? Which One? Do you know where to insert the pins? I have this on my G37X and it is very neat looking and easy to do without splicing wires.

I didn't yet...mainly because I sold my Escort 9500 on eBay last month. As @CircuitGuy mentioned above you might want the 20" version to reach, not a bad idea to go longer either way if you can stuff the extra in the headliner.

This one is a little more money but also has interchangeable tips/pins and it is fused for protection.

Funny I had two G37X sedans before my 300S, and I agree, it was such an easy and clean install. My plan is to tap the dome lights as shown in post #34 but first I need to figure out if my current BlendMount bracket can fit and then actually pick up a new detector...likely the Uniden R3.