They can and will, but they'll charge an enormous fee for it, because they don't want you tying up a Service Center for that. I've gotten alignments done at Firestone stores. The secret is to ask if they've worked on Teslas before (they usually have).

 

Oddly enough Tesla was cheaper than some other locations around here, for AWD alignment so do look into price comparisons.

Tesla suspension isn't rocket science even if more advanced than some but no more so than any BMW or Audi or other multi-link.

 

Print out the Tesla Model 3 Assignment spec sheet (Google) and take it to your local auto repair shop and i all sure one of them will align it for you for less then $100. I got mine done this way. Tesla wanted to charge $300+ and driving 150 miles each way.

 

The price for a Tesla alignment may vary depending on what all you are having done. When I took my M3 in for the AP3 upgrade and the charging pin replacement, I also had 4 new tires and an alignment done. The alignment was less than $150 when done with 4 new tires + installation.

 

I managed to get a hold of Tesla service. They say the excessive camber on the Model 3 is normal. I could see this on the performance version, it would help with track handling. But I don't feel that my car that gets me to and from work should burn through tires this fast. Mine is not the performance version. I understand that its a heavier car with lots of torque. But that doesn't need to be compounded with a camber setting that will wear them out even faster. They said that it can be adjusted. Since they didn't sound like they were interested in setting it to anything other than spec, I didn't bother to ask if they would do it. Even tho, IMO, and issue such as excessive tire wear, through no fault of my own, should be taken care of under warranty. But I would have to burn a day of vacation, since they're only open during weekdays, on top of having to drive about 4 hours each way. So I decided I'll just take it into a local shop here. Appt is this Sunday. I'll let u guys know how it works out. Thank you all for your input.

 

I managed to get a hold of Tesla service. They say the excessive camber on the Model 3 is normal.

I'm sorry, the terms excessive and normal don't work for me in this context. I don't show this kind of unbalanced wear on my car; tire wear is even and the car drives smooth and doesn't tug in any direction.

Good luck with the local folks.

 

Well, I have not made any modifications, of any kind, to the suspension. I don’t drive aggressively. And I have not had any accidents. They say that the inside wear is normal, due to the stock chamber settings. IMO, uneven wear should not be considered normal. And stock suspension settings on a street car should not cause uneven wear. Also, it doesn’t tug in any direction.

 

I had the same problem, I got a 4-wheel alignment today at the Portland SC for $125.

 

8k miles looks almost new outside but the inside looks 60% used ..
Light driving LR rwd. This is a problem

 

Get an alignment.

 

Only the toe (in or out) can be adjusted on a stock Tesla Model 3. Just about any shop can do the alignment. It is a relatively simple car to align since only one parameter can be adjusted. I kept the tire pressure at 50PSI cold and had -.2 toe on one if my rear tires and that contributed to the accelerated tire to wear on the inside portion. The car still drove perfectly straight down the road. I haven't put enough miles on the new tires to see if the wear is now even. Another factor that could cause excessive inside wear could be having too much pressure in the tires. The tires have different sidewalls and in some cases different rubber compounds on the inside versus the outside. When the tire is not at the recommended pressure, the contact patch might have more contact pressure in the inside section of the tread.

 

Same story here. Burned through the first set of tires at around 14-15k miles with excessive wear on the front inner treads. Got the car re-alligned. Even wear to around 22,500 miles (now) and noticing the same kind of excessive inner wear. Outer tread looks close to new. I had a safety score of 98 (but just got the beta so I can now drive like a normal person

I think getting your rotations is key (obviously), but Tesla did not recommend a tire rotation when I had the speakers looked at at the 7k mark.......

Has anyone had better experience with tires other than the stock Michelins?

 

OEM tires suck. I got around 25K miles each from 2 sets of OEM's. Since then I got around 50K from a set of Pirelli's and I'm now happily running Nokian 1's (80k tires). I understand that different drivers have different priorities. But if value is anywhere on your list of priorities, stay the hell away from any tire that Tesla supplies as an OEM.

 

Thanks for the recommendation. Hopefully I can get these through the winter and then move on...
Those Nokian's look pretty good.

 

Just some professional tire advice from someone who's worked for both Goodyear and Firestone, and does all the alignments currently at our shop...

Uneven wear on a tire is either from being out of alignment, or worn parts (thus causing an out of alignment condition).

Premature, but even wear, is usually from low treadwear rating tires, aggressive driving, or being on certain vehicles that by design stress tires.

Alignment is the number one cause for poor fuel mileage, and I would assume the same could be said for EVs (decreased range). Alignments go out of spec WAY more often that most people realize. And the more adjustment points on the vehicle, the more things to go out of spec. You should check your alignment every 10-12k miles. There's a reason that manufacturers only warranty alignment on new vehicles for 12k miles (because after that it's common to need adjustment).

Toe is the angle of the wheels pointed in/out at the front of the tires. Camber is the angle of the wheels pointing in/out at the top of the tires. Caster does not cause tire wear.

Some vehicles like high performance cars and most European cars, call for a LOT of camber, especially on the rear. Those cars need tires every 10-12k miles and that's normal. It's the price you pay for the improved grip and handling.

Tire rotations are just as important. Tires should be rotated every 5-6k miles. The reason for this, is twofold. First, front tires generally wear the edges faster, and doing proper rotations moves them to the back and helps all 4 tires wear evenly. The second reason is because one end of most vehicles is usually lighter, and the lighter axle will be more prone to chopping. Doing regular rotations also makes this happen evenly.

Naturally, make sure your air pressure is proper, especially in the winter since the cold will drop your pressures as much as 8-10 psi. Keep in mind that cars that see a LOT of highway use, will tend to wear the centers of the tires, because sustained higher speeds makes the center of the tire grow. This will also shorten tire life.

Also, cars with staggered wheel sizes (larger on rear, smaller on front), won't be able to move the tires front to rear. If you are running non-directional tires, then you can move them left to right on the same axles. If you have staggered wheels AND directional tires... don't expect much life. You can't rotate them at all.

So in a nutshell.... rotate your tires every 5-6k, check your alignment every 2nd rotation (10-12k), and make sure your air pressure is good.

 

Alignments go out of spec WAY more often that most people realize. And the more adjustment points on the vehicle, the more things to go out of spec.

Good to hear from someone who actually does alignments. Thanks!
Can you refer me to a source for the alignment specs for my 2018 Dual Motor M3?

 

+1 for maintaining tire pressure; mine are doing surprisingly well at about 26k miles, they get rotated at 10k intervals cause a little lazy and always are cold inflated to 45psi (I don't mind that ride quality). Alignment matters too of course

 

Same story here. Burned through the first set of tires at around 14-15k miles with excessive wear on the front inner treads. Got the car re-alligned. Even wear to around 22,500 miles (now) and noticing the same kind of excessive inner wear. Outer tread looks close to new. I had a safety score of 98 (but just got the beta so I can now drive like a normal person I think getting your rotations is key (obviously), but Tesla did not recommend a tire rotation when I had the speakers looked at at the 7k mark....... Has anyone had better experience with tires other than the stock Michelins?

No, but certainly worse ones. I have burnt through Pirelli Pzero in around 11k miles on the back of my M3P. I have currently got some Kumho 4x (increased the with from 235 to 245) and they have about 9k Miles and the inside of the tyres is done. Outside still has about 30% tread left but they will have to go. Michelin PS4s lasted just under 20k miles for me. Always same style of driving - like to hit it hard off the lights but otherwise more or less normal driving.

 

On a previous job, part of my duties were fleet management. Every vehicle that we purchased went directly for frontend alignment as part of the process of getting them onto the road and use. I still do this with personal vehicles. Further tires are disposable product, the better the tire, the more traction the tire has , the more the tires are "used', the less miles you'll be able to put on them.

 

Same problem. I will post my alignment summary report, which seems to indicate innacurate/impossible readings. As an example, in Before Measurementsleft front Toe readding is -0.25, but the arrow is at +0.02. If it really was -0.25 it should be ccompletely off the scale, as is indicated on the Right Front. Total Toe at -0.76 is completely off the scale, but on the right side, not the left. Not one of the Before Toe measurements were correctly recorded. In this case, how much confidence should I have that the Current measurements are accurate??

 

Hi Jason:
I understand that each bar represents a range and that the limits of the range are shown at each end of the bar. If the measurement is beyond the range indicate on the bar, then an X is used, not an arrow ...as in Right Front Toe. Total Toe is beyond the range and IS marked with an X, but on the wrong side.
Am I correct in assuming that this is independant of the linearity of the scale?

 

Correction: Total Toe is CORRECTLY marked with an X on the left ....my mistake.

 

105'000km 2019 M3P looks brand new inside. Bonnet paint sub-par. No other complants.