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Subwoofer install journey

552 views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  Lashlee  
#1 ·
Hi all,

I have been following many threads on this forum for a while now.
I have a 2021 Model 3 Long Range AWD with premium audio. I wanted to install an aftermarket sub and amp. I read and watched tons of threads and videos and decided to give it a go myself. I have never tried something like this so was terrified.
My equipment:
Rockford Fosgate 500x1D mono block amp wired at 2ohms for 500 watts RMS
Audiocontrol LC1i
Custom sub trunk sealed box
12” Alpine Type S subwoofer
Rockford Fosgate 4gauge amp install kit
PAC wiring harness so I didn’t have to cut or splice any Tesla wires.

Installed to 12 volt penthouse under the back seat. No relays, or capacitors. I thought about it, but it just looked too complicated for me. And I had seen most install videos on YouTube did not use them.

Took my half a day to install everything. Right from the start, everything was working perfectly. No error messages and absolutely pounding bass.
The only problem is the Fosgate amp was slightly too big for the space I wanted to install it.
So I purchased new amp with a smaller footprint. It was more powerful. A 1000watts at 2ohms.
I thought it would be as easy as just unhooking the old amp and putting in the new one.
I wired it up and could see the amp was getting power, but zero sound. Tried all the different settings, and inputs with no change.

And then I saw on my screen that I had electrical error messages:
“Electrical System is unable to support all features” & “Electrical system backup power is unavailable”.
I nearly had a heart attack. I checked all my connections.
In the end, I had to do a hard reset by disconnecting the battery at the front of the car and reinstalling my Rockford amp.
The errors then went away and the subwoofer is working perfectly.
I am wondering if the new amp is just drawing too much current for the 12 volt battery.
I may give it another go with the other amp if I am feeling confident. But, to be honest, it scared the hell out of me and I thought I had done some serious damage to my electrical system.
Just wanted to share and see if others have had this problem, and if they did, what was the fix?
 
#2 ·
In what I've seen in the installs I've done, in my 2021 M3P and a few others, the relay/resistor is crucial for any amp over approximately 200 wrms. Without going into details that don't matter, essentially the car shuts down when the car is idle. This causes the amp to lose charge (the caps within the amp) and when you wake the car up, the caps within the amp will "show" the car an excessive amount of inrush current thus causing the errors that you have seen.

I used one of the recommended relay/resistor combos in my install using three 5 channel amps (approximately 3800 wrms of power). In short, your choice to disregard the recommended wiring to the penthouse revealed the reason why most of successful installs use this setup.