Speakers everywhere! Has anyone installed a legitimate aftermarket system at this point? If so, are there any learning curves or gotchas vs. ICE cars? Is it even possible to find good speakers to replace every single type in the model 3?
aftermarket sound system info thread
Drizzle
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I'll bet the evaluation boards have to be configured to match what Tesla has setup in the car. I'd be surprised if they are not configurable.
That is doable if you can figure out what they have done. Maybe AD has a reader programmer.
I wonder if they are where the equalization/filtering is done. Maybe the system could be calibrated for new speakers and perhaps amps.
That is doable if you can figure out what they have done. Maybe AD has a reader programmer.
I wonder if they are where the equalization/filtering is done. Maybe the system could be calibrated for new speakers and perhaps amps.
Yeah, I saw that. Unfortunately, that's all I found. I haven't seen any A2B equipment for sale anywhere. It was designed specifically for automotive OEM, so I'm guessing it's handled by a part of the company that doesn't deal with the general public.
A second concern is that even if you could get one of those boards, I don't know whether you would be able to use it. AD doesn't give much detail about A2B, but they do say it's very flexible and highly configurable, which means the chips probably need to be programmed for each specific application. That might mean setting a handful of parameters, or it might mean writing your own custom code, and without that custom code you can't read the incoming data. But honestly I just don't know.
I'm planning on a DSP from JL Audio. They have very good control software.
I'm using JL DSPs. They have very good software with a lot of configurability.
I might use the rear mids + woofer + sub or I might use tweeters + front mids + woofer + sub. Not sure yet.
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If you are serious about building a A2B interface, looks like this would be a good choice: AD2427W
Update: Also here is a good summary of the tech: Innovative Digital Bus Architecture Reduces Audio System Costs
Update: Also here is a good summary of the tech: Innovative Digital Bus Architecture Reduces Audio System Costs
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FYI, after a little research I believe this is the amp IC they are using in the ICE, so tapping an analog line before the amp is not possible:
Digital input quad power amplifier
Digital input quad power amplifier
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Do we know if the speakers are 2 Ohm? 72W per channel X4 is possible with 2 Ohm speakers at >10%THD. 43W at 10%THD. That is pretty respectable. You said there were 8 channels so I assume there are two IC's driving 3 IP speakers, the 2 headliner speakers, the 2 front door tweeters.
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Not sure if anyone cares, but I continue to be pleased with the substitute subwoofer I put in my rear deck.
Without the tuned port of the stock sub box, I would say it may be slightly less "punchy" than the stock, but it sounds more realistic/natural/honest/true to me.
I hear more subtlety in the bass now that was somewhat blended together in the "whoomp whoomp" sound of the stock sub.
In a way I would describe the stock sub more like someone was hitting me with a boxing glove every-time a heavy sub-bass note was played.
With the new sub it is more about listening to it than feeling it. Well there is still quite a bit of oomph in the new sub, but not the same type of distort my eyeballs feeling of the original.
Without the tuned port of the stock sub box, I would say it may be slightly less "punchy" than the stock, but it sounds more realistic/natural/honest/true to me.
I hear more subtlety in the bass now that was somewhat blended together in the "whoomp whoomp" sound of the stock sub.
In a way I would describe the stock sub more like someone was hitting me with a boxing glove every-time a heavy sub-bass note was played.
With the new sub it is more about listening to it than feeling it. Well there is still quite a bit of oomph in the new sub, but not the same type of distort my eyeballs feeling of the original.
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Correct. The sub amp is Class-D and has it's own regulated boost converter. Type of 12v battery doesn't matter, as when you are in the car, the DC-DC in the PCS is supplying as much current as you need. You can even remove the 12v battery and you won't even notice. Putting Lithium in place of the lead-acid is not a good idea if you ever expect the car to be in below freezing weather. The other problem with Lithium is it cannot sink voltage transients, as once it's fully charged, it's internal BMS will disconnect the input, so then you are effectively disconnected. Transients can occur when an inductive load, such as an actuator motor is dynamically braked and it's energy is dumped back into the 12v rail. This load-dump capability is an important feature the lead acid battery brings.
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Remember that the DC-DC has to supply power to the power steering. Probably something like 5kW and it has to be very fast or you will feel it in the steering.
Capacitors in the system can absorb energy from spikes but their voltage will rise as they charge. Lead acid batteries are not that way so much.
Capacitors in the system can absorb energy from spikes but their voltage will rise as they charge. Lead acid batteries are not that way so much.
Tesla Model 3 Long Range 1st Production PUP EAP Deep Blue Metallic
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There were a few folks in the Braille replacement battery thread also claiming it improves sound.
I really think it is a placebo effect, especially considering the battery is at the complete opposite end of the car from the sub amp.
Some nice large caps next to your amp is what you really want.
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I suspect that is only useful for really high power amps.
Those "earth shaker" demo cars with groups of highpower subwoofers using many hundreds or even thousands of watts...
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That pic is a terrible example. The wires cap to amplifier should be as short as possible. And no bare connectors.
Quick status check:
My biggest concern is still finding the optimal 12VDC power source for a large audio system. At full volume my stereo is going to pull significantly more than the 10A available through the 12V accessories line, so I'm looking at options.
- Has anyone connected amps or other large equipment directly to the 12V DC-DC converter? Have you seen any negative effects from that? Error messages, anything at all?
- I'm looking for someone with more electronics experience than me to provide feedback on this idea. If I use the 12V/10A accessories line to supply my >120W stereo system, I'd want to put a current limiter in between the two, and capacitors or batteries on the audio side. So if the stereo consumes more than 10A, voltage on those capacitors/batteries drops but we still only pull 10A from the accessories line. I'm not sure what the easiest way to do this would be. I haven't been able to find any off-the-shelf circuits that just strictly limit current at a certain value.
My biggest concern is still finding the optimal 12VDC power source for a large audio system. At full volume my stereo is going to pull significantly more than the 10A available through the 12V accessories line, so I'm looking at options.
- Has anyone connected amps or other large equipment directly to the 12V DC-DC converter? Have you seen any negative effects from that? Error messages, anything at all?
- I'm looking for someone with more electronics experience than me to provide feedback on this idea. If I use the 12V/10A accessories line to supply my >120W stereo system, I'd want to put a current limiter in between the two, and capacitors or batteries on the audio side. So if the stereo consumes more than 10A, voltage on those capacitors/batteries drops but we still only pull 10A from the accessories line. I'm not sure what the easiest way to do this would be. I haven't been able to find any off-the-shelf circuits that just strictly limit current at a certain value.
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The aux 12V circuit is designed to shut down when an overload is detected..
You can also install a 10A fuse if it makes you feel better.
The DC-DC converter output is under the pass side of the lower rear seat. It is easy to remove the lower seat. There are two catches one at each end just under the front. Then lift the front and disconnect the two wiring harness plugs, one at each end. Lift it out. There is a foam pad over the connector. You'll see a large red wire and an uninsulated one (as I recall) that is bolted to the chassis.
You can also install a 10A fuse if it makes you feel better.
The DC-DC converter output is under the pass side of the lower rear seat. It is easy to remove the lower seat. There are two catches one at each end just under the front. Then lift the front and disconnect the two wiring harness plugs, one at each end. Lift it out. There is a foam pad over the connector. You'll see a large red wire and an uninsulated one (as I recall) that is bolted to the chassis.
Tesla Model 3 Long Range 1st Production PUP EAP Deep Blue Metallic
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The best bet is the 12v output post under the rear passenger seat. Please add a fuse immediately then wire to your sub.
Your idea is well intentioned, expect there is nothing to limit the power coming from the accessory line except when it is fully disabled due to over current. You would basically need a complex constant current power supply circuit to achieve what you are thinking. Use the rear connection instead. All you need to do is pull the red boot off and add another nut on top of the existing one.
Not sure yet if this will cause a warning from the car, but as long as its not drawing power when the car is off it should be OK
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