I seem to be geting VCFRONT_a059 error every few days what could this be form and or cause it I have looked it up but can’t seem to find it anywhere
VCFront_a059 Error
1 reading
Sboi
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
Yours looks more like a bad low-voltage battery due to the 2nd error.
Negatory, notice the time difference between the two codes. Either of these codes will show up usually during the charger starting or stopping, plugging in or unplugging, or in some cases the disconnection of the high-voltage solenoid during sleep mode. Neither of those codes are of concern unless another code is set with it during the same time. Now, I also believe that if the voltage drop equaled more than 1v (one) volt, then there could be a concern of ground strap or connector continuity..
Yours seems to have a high-voltage battery failure. As long as you have less than 100k miles, yours should be covered by warranty. Is yours a Standard Range or Long Range?
Though you are getting distracted by the wrong error. The VCFRONT one just refers to itself being shut off because the low voltage battery is low, which happens sometimes. It's an excessively logged error, though in your case might be triggered by PCS not charging the LV battery (because of the HV battery failure). The BMS error, however, that one is a huge issue.
Thanks for the response. Mine is the standard. Sadly I don't have a warranty. I bought the car at an auction totalled. I have done this a few times before. However I learned quickly this was a huge mistake on a Tesla. I soon found out Tesla doesn't have a parts department. They will only sell you parts for the kindness of their hearts if they feel sorry for you spending countless hours on you lunch hour. Just to be told repeatedly they don't have the parts you need. They have to keep the ones they have for making new cars or servicing real Tesla owners
i had to buy most from eBay at a much higher price. Then spend about $7k more to have Tesla repair every thing else. Replacing wiring harnesses and all. Then had to pay another $1200 for them to turn on the ability to super charge. Even though they did all that work and the accident had nothing to do with the high voltage system.Sorry I am having a bit of a meltdown today. After I got their estimate of $9.5k down from the 1st which was $13k. This with dealing with my cancer over the last year has me in a financial and emotional pickle. I could have purchased a new one with a warranty for about the amount of money I have put into my model 3. Now I can afford to put a bunch of money into it and can't afford not to have my daily driver working.
So if anyone has any recommendations on how to fix it myself or a less expensive open. I am all ears.
Attached are some fresh screenshots of the service pages.
Attachments
I received an estimate on the repairs $9,500! I think this includes replacing the battery? They haven't even seen the car yet. Any thing cheaper I can do?
No clue why they are they are even doing the refrigerant? $340
![Image]()
It's not something I am having an issue with or requested
No clue why they are they are even doing the refrigerant? $340
Joined
·
23,668 Posts
Because the refrigerant runs through the battery. You need to drain it if you're removing the battery.
Oh ok that makes since.
I heard back from Tesla. They say their is no other options then replace the battery. And I don't have a warranty. So I have $33k brick. If I put another $10k into it then it will work again
Anyone have any other options?
Joined
·
23,668 Posts
Yes, that includes replacing the battery (at the top of Page 2). The P/T sensors are temp sensors, which tend to go bad in 2021's. I guess they want to make sure the cooling system is 100% before replacing the HV battery.
The rest of the Service Mode pages you posted are a good sign - PCS is healthy, and so is the low voltage battery and HVIL. Once they replace the HV battery and get the cooling system 100%, the car will be good! Assuming you finished any body repairs from the totaled status.
Tesla is still the best option for replacing the battery, because they're the only ones who offer a short warranty with it. And if yours is LFP, those batteries refurbed can be a crapshoot sometimes.
I actually checked these guys out when I was doing the rebuild. But they are in Florida and MA. It would cost more to transport it from Salt Lake. Plus I would still likely still have to pay Tesla to make it work. The battery is only $7,250. Just wish I bought a new Tesla with full warranty. I don't have another $10k to spend. Might need to let it sit for awhile.
That's Electrified Garage. I thought they stopped doing battery swaps, they usually tell people just to go to Tesla since EG can't offer a warranty.
Here's how you can tell how much time your battery has: Try charging it to 90%. It probably won't let you, but if it makes it at least up into the mid 80%'s, you have some time. If it stops at 50%, you have very little time. Or if it doesn't take a charge at all, then you have no time.
Another thing to consider is how much you paid for the car, and how much the battery replacement costs, and if you can at least reach close to breakeven with the current value of the car (not Tesla trade-in, something like Carmax or Carvana) then you have more choices. You can keep driving your car with a new battery, or you can trade it for a new one, or even just a newer one with a warranty.
Thanks at least I know the car is in good shape. I have been driving it for about 18 months. Put 25k miles on it. Then it died
was enjoying it. Charging it from my solar and not buying gas. I wonder if I should push for LFP's mine are the previous version I can only charge to 80%.
Maybe get the higher capacity too. But they will likely only replace it with the same.
LFP's are more suited for Standard Range since they can be charged to 100% more frequently. I have a feeling the previous owner kept charging to 100% out of impatience because of the lower range of the Standard Range model, which could be how it perished. But nickel batteries are lighter and provide more power (faster acceleration and charging).Thanks at least I know the car is in good shape. I have been driving it for about 18 months. Put 25k miles on it. Then it died
I wonder if I should push for LFP's mine are the previous version I can only charge to 80%.
Maybe get the higher capacity too. But they will likely only replace it with the same.
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
