[tayne1264]

Thanks at least I know the car is in good shape. I have been driving it for about 18 months. Put 25k miles on it. Then it died was enjoying it. Charging it from my solar and not buying gas.
I wonder if I should push for LFP's mine are the previous version I can only charge to 80%.
Maybe get the higher capacity too. But they will likely only replace it with the same.

LFP's are more suited for Standard Range since they can be charged to 100% more frequently. I have a feeling the previous owner kept charging to 100% out of impatience because of the lower range of the Standard Range model, which could be how it perished. But nickel batteries are lighter and provide more power (faster acceleration and charging).

Possibly but it only had 20k miles when I got it and rarely charged it over 80% I put about 25K on it since I bought it. Had been running fine. I would be ok with LFPs I can charge to 100%. I built two LFP batteries for my solar system. They seem to work good for solar.

 

[JasonF]

Possibly but it only had 20k miles when I got it and rarely charged it over 80% I put about 25K on it since I bought it. Had been running fine. I would be ok with LFPs I can charge to 100%. I built two LFP batteries for my solar system. They seem to work good for solar.

Solar doesn't need rapid discharge as much, so LFP does work well.

Tesla generally bases its estimates for battery replacement on whatever they have in stock in crates outside in the parking lot. So you can ask them if they can switch it, but it might cost more depending on whether they have the battery lying around or not.

 

[tayne1264]

Possibly but it only had 20k miles when I got it and rarely charged it over 80% I put about 25K on it since I bought it. Had been running fine. I would be ok with LFPs I can charge to 100%. I built two LFP batteries for my solar system. They seem to work good for solar.

Solar doesn't need rapid discharge as much, so LFP does work well.

Tesla generally bases its estimates for battery replacement on whatever they have in stock in crates outside in the parking lot. So you can ask them if they can switch it, but it might cost more depending on whether they have the battery lying around or not.

So if it were you and you had a choice which battery would you get if they are the same price?

 

[JasonF]

So if it were you and you had a choice which battery would you get if they are the same price?

I would get the nickel battery and keep it between 80% and 20% to keep the cycles down, mostly because I already know how to take care of one (from my long range 2018 Model 3).

 

[tayne1264]

So if it were you and you had a choice which battery would you get if they are the same price?

I would get the nickel battery and keep it between 80% and 20% to keep the cycles down, mostly because I already know how to take care of one (from my long range 2018 Model 3).

That is a fair assessment. I think I would go with the LFP. Being able to use the battery's full capacity and 10k cycles. Is a game changer for me. Just my thoughts.

 

[garsh]

That is a fair assessment. I think I would go with the LFP. Being able to use the battery's full capacity and 10k cycles. Is a game changer for me. Just my thoughts.

There's this mistaken notion that LFPs can be charged to 100% without consequence. That's not correct. They will also degrade more quickly when regularly charged and left sitting at 100%.

Yes, Tesla does recommend that you charge them to 100% "once per week". The reason why is because an LFP battery discharge curve is quite "flat" in the middle, making it difficult for the BMS to know the battery's SOC (state of charge). Charging to 100% places the battery in a less-flat part of the discharge curve, allowing the BMS to more accurately estimate the SOC.

 

[tayne1264]

That is a fair assessment. I think I would go with the LFP. Being able to use the battery's full capacity and 10k cycles. Is a game changer for me. Just my thoughts.

There's this mistaken notion that LFPs can be charged to 100% without consequence. That's not correct. They will also degrade more quickly when regularly charged and left sitting at 100%.

Yes, Tesla does recommend that you charge them to 100% "once per week". The reason why is because an LFP battery discharge curve is quite "flat" in the middle, making it difficult for the BMS to know the battery's SOC (state of charge). Charging to 100% places the battery in a less-flat part of the discharge curve, allowing the BMS to more accurately estimate the SOC.

Even my home batteries only charge to 95-98%. The BMS slows it down and keeps it from overcharging. There is a big debate about LFPs and if the degrate faster if charged to 100%. What I have been reading is yes a little bit, but over a 10 year period it is minor compared to the ability to use the the full capacity of the battery. But even at 90-95% which is where I would likely charge if it were my daily driver. Its better then 80% and down to 20%.

 

[tayne1264]

This is one of his YouTube videos about charging them to 100%. He is specifically talking about solar. But the information is very worth watching. He has another one that is 9 minutes that goes more in depth.

 

[tayne1264]

I just heard back from Tesla. LFP batteries are not available for paid upgrades. That is so stupid! If I have to pay for it why not give me the newer one? I only missed one by a couple of months! Should I make a big stink about it or just be happy I can get what I can get?

 

[JasonF]

I just heard back from Tesla. LFP batteries are not available for paid upgrades. That is so stupid! If I have to pay for it why not give me the newer one? I only missed one by a couple of months! Should I make a big stink about it or just be happy I can get what I can get?

As I mentioned above, it often has to do with whatever kind of batteries are sitting in crates in the parking lot. I guess they don't have any returb LFP's left.

 

[garsh]

But even at 90-95% which is where I would likely charge if it were my daily driver. Its better then 80% and down to 20%.

I've almost always charged my non-LFP Teslas to 90-100% (and often run it down below 20%). As long as you don't let it sit for very long at the extremes, the additional degradation is very minor.

 

[tayne1264]

So my car battery is draining it was at 80 miles when I parked it yesterday. Now it's at 58 miles. What can I unplug or turn off? My fear is I will not be able to drive it to the dealer. Also if I disconnect the 12v or HV will it reset and let me charge to 50%?

 

[JasonF]

So my car battery is draining it was at 80 miles when I parked it yesterday. Now it's at 58 miles. What can I unplug or turn off? My fear is I will not be able to drive it to the dealer. Also if I disconnect the 12v or HV will it reset and let me charge to 50%?

It will not reset, the HV battery BMS remembers its status even without power. How far will it charge if you plug it in?

Even if it won't charge while plugged in, keeping it plugged in will let the accessories in the car run off of the wall socket instead of draining the battery, so that might help.

Other than that, disabling any third-party apps, turning off Sentry Mode, and not reloading the Tesla app too often will reduce battery drain. You can slow it further by putting the car in Service Mode and leaving it there.

 

[tayne1264]

So my car battery is draining it was at 80 miles when I parked it yesterday. Now it's at 58 miles. What can I unplug or turn off? My fear is I will not be able to drive it to the dealer. Also if I disconnect the 12v or HV will it reset and let me charge to 50%?

It will not reset, the HV battery BMS remembers its status even without power. How far will it charge if you plug it in?

Even if it won't charge while plugged in, keeping it plugged in will let the accessories in the car run off of the wall socket instead of draining the battery, so that might help.

Other than that, disabling any third-party apps, turning off Sentry Mode, and not reloading the Tesla app too often will reduce battery drain. You can slow it further by putting the car in Service Mode and leaving it there.

Thanks this are great suggestions. It will not allow any charging. I guy on YouTube said to disconnect the cable under the rear passenger side for t minutes and it would reset. Didn't even shut the computer off.

 

[tayne1264]

If I purchase a day or 2 of the Tesla toolbox. Can I rest the error codes and use it another week or so? Will it tell me what is actually wrong with the battery pack? Maybe it's something that I can repair or replace.

 

[JasonF]

If I purchase a day or 2 of the Tesla toolbox. Can I rest the error codes and use it another week or so? Will it tell me what is actually wrong with the battery pack? Maybe it's something that I can repair or replace.

Toolbox doesn't talk directly to BMS, it can only send it commands. One of them does involved resetting the isolation (failure) counter, but I have an educated guess that could make things worse.

Some of the service managers at Tesla Service Centers really want to keep old Teslas on the road and running. So sometimes whining a little bit about the cost can actually get them to discount it a bit. It works even better if you had the bad luck of it failing just barely outside of warranty, or it would be under warranty if not for some technicality.